Best plants for shrimp tanks: 12 easy picks and how to add them safely
Live plants and dwarf shrimp go together. Plants grow biofilm and trap bits of food that shrimp graze on all day, give molting shrimp and tiny shrimplets places to hide, and take up some of the nitrate and ammonia that shrimp and their food produce. The good news for beginners is that many of the best shrimp plants are also among the easiest aquarium plants to grow: they need low light, no CO2 and little or no fertilizer. This guide covers 12 commonly recommended picks and, just as important, how to add new plants without bringing in pesticides or pests. We haven't run our own trials; the notes here summarize hobby references, grower information and recurring owner reports.
Why shrimp tanks need live plants
- Grazing surface. Biofilm, the thin film of microbes that grows on every surface, is a large part of what shrimp eat. Fine-leaved plants such as mosses give it a lot of surface to grow on.
- Cover. Shrimp are vulnerable right after a molt, and shrimplets are tiny. Dense plants give both somewhere to hide, which matters even more with tankmates. See how to breed cherry shrimp.
- Water quality. Growing plants take up ammonia and nitrate, which helps keep parameters steady between water changes.
- Color and confidence. Many keepers notice shrimp come out more, and red shrimp show better color, against dark green plants and darker substrate. Our color guide covers other factors.
12 easy plants for shrimp tanks
| Plant | Type | Light | Why keepers use it | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Java moss | Moss | Low | The classic shrimp plant: dense, easy, traps food and biofilm | Grows messy and can trap debris; trim regularly |
| Christmas moss | Moss | Low–medium | Neater, branching shape; same grazing benefits | Slower than Java moss |
| Subwassertang | Fern (gametophyte) | Low | Moss-like clumps that shrimp pick over constantly | Pieces break off and float; tuck or tie it in |
| Java fern | Epiphyte | Low | Very hardy; tie to wood or rock | Do not bury the rhizome; it rots |
| Anubias (nana, petite) | Epiphyte | Low | Tough, broad leaves shrimp clean and rest on | Very slow; keep rhizome above substrate |
| Bucephalandra | Epiphyte | Low–medium | Compact and colorful for nano tanks | Slow and usually pricier |
| Salvinia | Floating | Any | Hanging roots shelter shrimplets; fast nutrient uptake | Can cover the surface; thin it out |
| Amazon frogbit | Floating | Any | Long roots shrimp graze; shades the tank below | Dislikes water on its leaves from strong flow or tight lids |
| Red root floaters | Floating | Medium–high | Red roots and leaves; shelters babies | Needs more light than other floaters |
| Hornwort | Stem (float or plant) | Low–medium | Fast grower that soaks up nutrients | Sheds needles, especially after a move |
| Guppy grass (Najas) | Stem (float or plant) | Low–medium | Dense tangle that shrimplets hide in | Grows fast; remove extra often |
| Cryptocoryne | Rooted | Low–medium | Hardy rooted plant for the substrate | Often "melts" after planting; benefits from root tabs |
Most of these grow fine in a low-tech tank with a basic LED light and no added CO2. Mosses and epiphytes such as Java fern and Anubias take their nutrients from the water, so they do not need a rich substrate; Cryptocorynes feed mainly through their roots. Our substrate guide covers which substrates suit rooted plants.
Mosses: the best all-round shrimp plant
If you only add one plant, many keepers would say a moss. Java moss, Christmas moss and similar mosses have a huge surface area for biofilm, catch tiny food particles and give shrimplets a place to hide from the moment they hatch. Tie or glue moss to rock or driftwood with cotton thread or cyanoacrylate gel glue, or wedge it into gaps in hardscape. Trim it every few weeks so the lower layers do not get dense and dirty, and remove trimmings so they do not drift into the filter. A basic aquascaping scissors and tweezers set makes trimming much easier.
Epiphytes: Java fern, Anubias and Bucephalandra
These grow from a rhizome (a thick horizontal stem) and attach to wood or rock instead of the substrate. Burying the rhizome is the most common mistake and tends to make it rot. Tie them on, or wedge them between stones, and they will root over time. They are slow and hardy, tolerate a wide range of water, and their larger leaves give shrimp a perch. Because they grow slowly, older leaves can collect algae in bright tanks; lower light or shorter photoperiods usually help.
Floating plants
Floaters such as Salvinia, Amazon frogbit and red root floaters grow quickly, pull nutrients straight from the water and dangle roots that shrimp graze and shrimplets shelter in. They also shade the tank, which can help limit algae. Keep them from covering the whole surface: leave some open water, scoop out extra plants each week, and use a ring of airline tubing to corral them if your filter outflow pushes them around. Duckweed works too but is very hard to remove once established, so many keepers avoid it.
Fast stem plants
Hornwort, guppy grass and water sprite grow quickly, which makes them useful for soaking up nutrients in a new or heavily stocked tank. They can float freely or be planted. Fast growers do need regular thinning, and some, like hornwort, drop needles when moved, so expect some mess at first.
How to add new plants safely
New plants are one of the most common ways problems get into a shrimp tank. Owners regularly report shrimp deaths after adding store-bought plants, and many keepers suspect pesticide residue, since plants grown for the aquarium trade can be treated during production and shrimp are very sensitive to insecticides. Plants can also carry snails, planaria and hydra.
- Tissue-culture cups are the lowest-risk option. These are grown in sterile gel in a lab, so they arrive free of snails and pests, and growers market them as pesticide-free. Rinse off the gel before planting. Many popular shrimp plants, including mosses, Anubias, Bucephalandra and Cryptocorynes, are sold this way, usually as a tissue-culture aquarium plant cup.
- Quarantine potted or bunched plants. A common approach is to remove pots and rock wool, rinse well, and keep the plants in a separate container of dechlorinated water for a couple of weeks, changing the water every few days, before they go in with shrimp.
- Be careful with dips. Some keepers dip plants in diluted bleach or other treatments to kill hitchhikers. Dips can damage delicate plants, and any residue is dangerous to shrimp, so rinse and dechlorinate thoroughly if you use one, or stick with quarantine.
- Trade plants from shrimp tanks. Plants from another keeper's established shrimp tank are a good sign they are shrimp-safe, though they can still carry pests.
- Buy marimo balls from a reputable source. In 2021, zebra mussels, an invasive species, were found in some marimo moss balls sold in pet stores, prompting major US retailers to pull them and wildlife agencies to issue disposal guidance. Buy from sellers who address this, and never dump aquarium plants or water outdoors.
After adding any new plant, watch your shrimp closely for a day or two. Sudden frantic swimming or deaths right after a new plant goes in are a reason to remove it and do a well-matched water change.
Plants to skip
- Non-aquatic plants sold as aquarium plants. Some stores sell land plants (often labeled as aquatic) that slowly rot underwater and foul the water. If a plant looks like a houseplant, check its name before buying.
- Demanding carpet and stem plants in a beginner tank. Many carpeting plants need strong light, CO2 and regular fertilizer. They can be grown with shrimp, but they make the tank harder to keep stable.
- Anything treated with snail killer or plant protection products that has not been quarantined.
Do shrimp plants need fertilizer?
In a lightly planted, low-light shrimp tank, mosses, epiphytes and floaters often grow well on shrimp waste and food alone. If plants look pale or stop growing, a shrimp-safe fertilizer at a reduced dose is the usual next step. Our shrimp-safe fertilizer guide explains the copper question and how to dose cautiously.
Simple layouts for a nano shrimp tank
- Low-tech starter (5–10 gallons): a piece of driftwood with Java moss and a Java fern tied on, an Anubias petite on a rock, and a handful of Salvinia on the surface.
- Breeding tank: plenty of moss and guppy grass for shrimplet cover, a floating plant to shade the tank, and open space near the front for feeding.
- Planted display: Cryptocorynes in the substrate with root tabs, Bucephalandra on rocks, and moss along the hardscape.
Whichever layout you choose, keep an open patch of substrate or a feeding dish so you can see whether shrimp are eating and remove leftovers. Our shrimp food guide covers how much to feed in a planted tank, and how many shrimp per gallon covers stocking.
The Maintenance Schedule printable has space to track plant trims alongside water changes and filter care.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best plant for a shrimp tank?
Many keepers would pick a moss such as Java moss or Christmas moss. It grows in low light, needs no CO2, and gives shrimp a large surface for grazing biofilm and a place for shrimplets to hide.
Do shrimp need live plants?
Shrimp can survive without them, but live plants make life easier: they grow biofilm shrimp eat, provide cover after molting and help keep water quality steady. Most shrimp keepers use at least a moss and a floating plant.
Can new plants kill shrimp?
They can. Plants from the aquarium trade can carry pesticide residue, and plants can bring in pests such as planaria and hydra. Tissue-culture plants are the lowest-risk option; quarantine potted or bunched plants before adding them.
Do shrimp eat live plants?
Healthy dwarf shrimp mostly graze biofilm, algae and decaying leaves rather than healthy plants. If shrimp seem to be eating plants, the leaves are often already melting or dying, or the shrimp may be underfed.
Are floating plants good for shrimp?
Yes. Floating plants such as Salvinia and frogbit grow quickly, take up nutrients, shade the tank and have roots shrimp graze and shrimplets hide in. Keep some of the surface open.
Do I need CO2 or special lights for shrimp plants?
Not for the easy plants in this guide. Mosses, Java fern, Anubias, floaters and hornwort all grow in a low-tech tank with a basic aquarium LED.