Scarlet badis with shrimp

By the Shrimp Tank Hub editorsUpdated Oct 26, 2026Research-based

The scarlet badis (Dario dario) is one of the smallest percoid fishes known, a jewel-like nano fish from clear, plant-filled streams draining into the Brahmaputra in West Bengal and Assam, India (Seriously Fish). Males reach only about 0.8 in and show seven blue bars on a red body; females are smaller, grayer and rarely sold (Seriously Fish, Aquariadise, Aquatic Arts). Its small size makes it a popular companion for shrimp, but it is a micropredator that hunts tiny crustaceans, and baby shrimp fit that description.

Scarlet badis at a glance

Will scarlet badis eat shrimp?

• Adult cherry and Amano shrimp: usually not. Aquariadise names cherry and Amano shrimp as tank mates that can't easily fit in a badis's mouth, though it notes an adult could occasionally be eaten. An adult cherry shrimp is longer than an adult male badis (our comparison).
• Shrimplets: yes. Seriously Fish says Dario species feed on small aquatic crustaceans, and Aquariadise and Aquatic Arts both expect shrimp babies and juveniles to be eaten. Our inference: in a dense, mossy tank some babies survive and the colony grows slowly. In a bare tank it may not grow at all.
• Snails: Aquatic Arts lists snails as suitable companions.
• Tiny shrimp species: smaller dwarf shrimp, such as some Caridina, have smaller babies and slower breeding, so the risk is higher (our inference). See Caridina vs Neocaridina.

Matching the water

Seriously Fish gives 64–79 °F, pH 6.5–8.5 and 1–15 dGH. Aquariadise is narrower: 72–79 °F and pH 6.5–7.5, and it calls the species sensitive to water quality. Cherry-type shrimp tolerate 65–85 °F, pH 6.2–8.0 and GH 4–8 (The Shrimp Farm). By our comparison, about 72–77 °F, pH 6.8–7.5 and GH 4–8 suits both, in a stable, mature tank. See shrimp water parameters.

Tank size and setup

• Size: 10 gallons or more for one male and two or three females (Aquariadise). Aquatic Arts suggests 20+ gallons for a group of six or more.
• Dense cover: Seriously Fish recommends a well-structured tank with lots of cover: Cryptocoryne, Anubias, Java fern and moss, plus driftwood, floating plants and leaf litter. That same cover protects shrimplets. See Java moss for shrimp and driftwood and botanicals.
• Caves spread out: Seriously Fish suggests spreading caves through the tank so males can each claim territory.
• Gentle flow: slow to moderate flow (Aquariadise). A sponge filter suits both species; see shrimp-safe filters.
• Mature tank: an established, planted tank grows the tiny live food that badis hunt between meals (our note). See copepods, seed shrimp and scuds.

Feeding both

This is the main work of keeping badis. Seriously Fish recommends small live or frozen foods such as baby brine shrimp (Artemia nauplii), daphnia, grindal worms and microworms, and says bloodworms and tubifex should be left out because badids tend to become obese and more prone to disease on them. Aquatic Arts agrees and says many will not accept dry food at first. Shrimp will happily clean up leftover frozen food, so feed small amounts the badis can finish and let the shrimp take the rest (our suggestion). Feed shrimp food in a separate spot. See best shrimp food and what do shrimp eat.

Males and tank mates

Seriously Fish says rival males can be very aggressive toward each other in confined spaces, so in small tanks keep one male, or one male with several females. It also says badis are slow and easily outcompeted for food, so they are best kept alone or with small, peaceful fish that swim in open water. Fast, greedy fish leave the badis hungry, and hungry badis hunt shrimplets harder (our inference).

How to add scarlet badis to a shrimp tank

• Shrimp first. Let the colony grow and the moss fill in before adding fish (Practical Fishkeeping).
• Start with one male in a 10-gallon tank, or add females only if you can find them.
• Have frozen or live food ready before the fish arrive.
• Quarantine the fish separately. Practical Fishkeeping says many fish medications are not safe for invertebrates. If fish get sick, ask a fish veterinarian or an experienced store about treatment that won't harm the shrimp. See how to quarantine and is copper toxic to shrimp.
• Watch the shrimplet count. If young shrimp vanish faster than they appear, add more moss or keep a backup colony.

Common mistakes

• Expecting badis to live on flakes.
• Feeding bloodworms as a staple (Seriously Fish, Aquatic Arts).
• Keeping two males in a small tank.
• Pairing them with fast fish that eat all the food.
• A sparse tank where shrimplets have nowhere to hide.

Track it

Log temperature, pH, GH and TDS on the free Water Parameter Log printable so you can keep the tank in the range both species share.

Frequently asked questions

Will scarlet badis eat cherry shrimp?

Adult cherry shrimp are usually too big. Aquariadise and Aquatic Arts say scarlet badis can live with larger shrimp but will eat babies and juveniles.

Can scarlet badis live with Amano shrimp?

Yes, in most cases. Adult Amano shrimp are far too large for a fish under an inch long, and Aquariadise lists them as a suitable tank mate.

What do scarlet badis eat?

Small live and frozen foods such as baby brine shrimp, daphnia and microworms. Seriously Fish and Aquatic Arts advise against bloodworms and tubifex as regular food.

How many scarlet badis can go in a 10 gallon tank?

Aquariadise suggests one male and two or three females in a 10-gallon tank, because males fight each other.

What temperature suits scarlet badis and cherry shrimp?

About 72 to 77 °F. Seriously Fish lists 64 to 79 °F for the badis and The Shrimp Farm lists 65 to 85 °F for cherry-type shrimp.

Will a shrimp colony keep growing with scarlet badis?

Usually slowly, if the tank has lots of moss and plants. Expect many shrimplets to be eaten, since badis hunt tiny crustaceans.

Sources: Seriously Fish, Dario dario (scarlet badis) (Brahmaputra tributaries in West Bengal and Assam; among the smallest percoids, 20 mm SL; males with seven blue bars; 18 × 12 in base for a pair or one male with females; well-structured tank with cover, Cryptocoryne, Anubias, Microsorum, Taxiphyllum, driftwood, floating plants, leaf litter; 64–79 °F, pH 6.5–8.5, 1–15 dGH; micropredator on small crustaceans, worms and larvae; live or frozen Artemia nauplii, daphnia, grindal and microworm; omit bloodworm and tubifex; slow, easily outcompeted, best alone or with small pelagic species; rival males aggressive, spread out caves; fry preyed upon); Aquariadise, Scarlet badis care (males about 0.8 in, females about 0.5 in; 10 gallons minimum; one male with two or three females; Vallisneria and Hygrophila, floating plants; slow to moderate flow; 72–79 °F, pH 6.5–7.5; sensitive to water quality; can live with larger shrimp such as cherry and Amano; babies most likely eaten, adults occasionally); Aquatic Arts, Scarlet badis (micropredator, live and frozen foods; many refuse dry food; avoid bloodworms and tubifex; safe with invertebrates too large to be prey; snails and larger shrimp but may eat fry and juveniles; 20+ gallons for a group of 6 or more; 0.5–0.8 in); Practical Fishkeeping, What can I keep with shrimp? (build the colony first; many fish medications unsafe for invertebrates); The Shrimp Farm, Red rili shrimp tank set-up and care (cherry-type Neocaridina: 65–85 °F, pH 6.2–8.0, GH 4–8). The shared water zone and the size comparison are our own.