Shrimp water parameters chart: cherry, crystal red, Amano and ghost shrimp
Most shrimp questions end up at the same place: what should my water be? The answer depends on the shrimp. Cherry shrimp and other Neocaridina are kept in a wide range of ordinary tap water, while crystal reds and most other Caridina need soft, acidic water that usually starts as RO. This page puts the commonly cited ranges from our species guides side by side, so you can check a tank at a glance.
Shrimp water parameters chart
These are commonly cited hobby ranges, not lab limits. Sources disagree at the edges, and shrimp already adapted to a breeder's water often do best in something close to it.
| Shrimp | GH | KH | pH | TDS | Temperature |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cherry and other Neocaridina (blue dream, blue velvet, yellow and more) | 6–8 dGH | 2–6 dKH | 6.5–8 | 150–250 ppm (some sources up to ~300) | Low to mid 70s °F (about 22–25 °C) |
| Crystal red and other Caridina (bee and tiger types) | 4–6 dGH | 0–1 dKH | 5.8–6.6 | 100–160 ppm | About 68–74 °F (20–23 °C) |
| Amano shrimp | Not fussy; stable, moderate water | About 6.5–7.5 | Not a key target | About 64–82 °F (18–28 °C) | |
| Ghost shrimp | Not fussy; stable, moderate water | About 7.0–8.0 | Not a key target | About 65–82 °F (18–28 °C) | |
Aqueon's shrimp care guide makes the same split: ghost, Amano and red cherry shrimp are not particular about pH or alkalinity as long as extremes are avoided, and can be kept in dechlorinated tap water, while most crystal and bee shrimp need soft, low-pH water made from RO or deionized water with a remineralizer. Some sources run higher for cherry shrimp; Practical Fishkeeping, for example, suggests harder water (8–18 °dH GH and 5–15 °dKH) at pH 6.5–8 and 18–26 °C. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service's risk screening for cherry shrimp quotes research describing captive breeding across 14–30 °C and pH 6–8.2, which is why Neocaridina cope with so many kinds of tap water. Full detail is in our species guides: cherry shrimp care, blue dream and blue velvet shrimp, crystal red shrimp care, Amano shrimp care and ghost shrimp care.
Targets every shrimp tank shares
| Parameter | Target | Read more |
|---|---|---|
| Ammonia | 0 (undetectable) | Ammonia and nitrite |
| Nitrite | 0 (undetectable) | How to cycle a shrimp tank |
| Nitrate | Low; many keepers aim for under about 20 ppm on a hobby kit, and Aqueon says below 10 ppm | Nitrate in a shrimp tank |
| Copper | None added; avoid copper medications and plant products | Is copper toxic to shrimp? |
| Chlorine / chloramine | None; always use a water conditioner on tap water | Can shrimp live in tap water? |
Aqueon says ammonia and nitrite should always be undetectable in a shrimp tank and recommends avoiding plant supplements and medications containing copper, which it notes is toxic to freshwater shrimp. A tank should be fully cycled before shrimp go in.
What each number means
- GH (general hardness) is mostly calcium and magnesium, the minerals shrimp use to build a new shell at each molt. See GH and KH explained.
- KH (carbonate hardness) is the buffer that holds pH steady. Neocaridina tanks usually keep some; Caridina tanks keep almost none, often with an active, buffering substrate holding pH low. See the best substrate for shrimp.
- pH mostly follows KH and the substrate. It is better to keep it steady than to chase a number; see shrimp tank pH.
- TDS is a quick total of everything dissolved. It is useful for spotting drift and for mixing RO and tap water, but it can't tell you GH or KH; see TDS explained.
- Temperature sets the pace: warmer water means faster metabolism, breeding and oxygen demand. See shrimp tank temperature.
Converting the units
Test kits report hardness in different units. One degree of hardness (dGH or dKH) is about 17.9 ppm (mg/L) as calcium carbonate, so 6 dGH is roughly 107 ppm and 2 dKH roughly 36 ppm. Many drop kits count one drop as one degree. TDS meters read in ppm but measure something different from GH, so a GH of 107 ppm and a TDS of 200 ppm can both be true of the same water.
Stability matters more than perfect numbers
Shrimp grow by molting, and sudden changes in temperature, hardness or TDS are among the most commonly cited causes of failed molts and sudden deaths. A tank that sits steadily slightly outside a chart range is usually safer than one that swings in and out of it.
- Change water in small, matched amounts. A common routine is about 10–20% every one to two weeks, with new water matched for temperature, GH and TDS; see shrimp tank water changes.
- Adjust slowly. If GH or pH needs to move, move it over several water changes, not in one go. For soft-water species, see remineralizing RO water.
- Acclimate new shrimp slowly. The bigger the gap between the seller's water and yours, the slower the drip; see how to drip acclimate shrimp.
- Top off evaporation with plain dechlorinated or RO water, not mineralized water: evaporation leaves the minerals behind, so TDS and GH creep up.
How to test
A liquid ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH kit, a separate GH/KH drop kit and a cheap TDS meter cover everything on this chart. Test weekly while a tank is new, then whenever something looks wrong and before and after water changes. Our shrimp water test kits guide compares the options.
Track it
Write your readings down. The free Water Parameter Log printable has columns for GH, KH, pH, TDS, temperature and nitrate, so slow drift shows up long before the shrimp react to it.
Frequently asked questions
What are the best water parameters for cherry shrimp?
Many keepers aim for about 6–8 dGH, 2–6 dKH, pH 6.5–8 and TDS 150–250 ppm, in the low to mid 70s °F (about 22–25 °C). Stable water matters more than exact numbers.
What water parameters do crystal red shrimp need?
Soft, acidic water: commonly about 4–6 dGH, 0–1 dKH, pH 5.8–6.6 and TDS 100–160 ppm, at about 68–74 °F. Most keepers start from RO water with a GH-only remineralizer.
Do Amano and ghost shrimp need special water?
No. They do well in stable, dechlorinated tap water that avoids extremes; commonly cited ranges are pH about 6.5–7.5 for Amano and 7.0–8.0 for ghost shrimp.
What should ammonia, nitrite and nitrate be in a shrimp tank?
Ammonia and nitrite should be zero. Keep nitrate low; many keepers aim for under about 20 ppm on a hobby kit, and Aqueon recommends below 10 ppm.
How do I convert dGH to ppm?
Multiply by about 17.9. For example, 6 dGH is about 107 ppm. To go from ppm to degrees, divide by 17.9.
Is TDS the same as GH?
No. TDS measures everything dissolved, while GH measures only calcium and magnesium. Use a GH/KH drop kit for hardness and TDS to spot drift.
Is it worse to have the wrong parameters or changing parameters?
For most shrimp, sudden changes are the bigger risk. Stable water slightly outside a chart range is usually safer than water that swings.
Sources: Aqueon, Freshwater Shrimp Care Guide (ammonia and nitrite undetectable, nitrate below 10 ppm; ghost, Amano and red cherry shrimp not particular about pH or alkalinity as long as extremes are avoided; most crystal and bee shrimp need soft, low-pH water from RO or DI water with a remineralizer; avoid copper; 10–20% water changes weekly); Practical Fishkeeping, An introduction to shrimp (cherry shrimp pH 6.5–8, 8–18 °dH, 5–15 °dKH, 18–26 °C); U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Cherry Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) Ecological Risk Screening Summary, June 2025 (PDF) (quoting captive breeding across 14–30 °C and pH 6–8.2); Cherry Shrimp Neocaridina davidi (UF/IFAS EDIS IN1301) (cherry shrimp grow by molting). Ranges for each species are the commonly cited hobby ranges from our species guides, which list their own sources.