Cherry barbs with shrimp

By the Shrimp Tank Hub editorsUpdated Oct 26, 2026Research-based

The cherry barb (Rohanella titteya, long sold as Puntius titteya) is a small schooling fish from the rainforest streams of southwestern Sri Lanka (The Shrimp Farm, Seriously Fish). It reaches about 2 inches, and unlike tiger barbs it is not a fin-nipper (The Shrimp Farm, Aquarium Co-Op). The Shrimp Farm notes the wild population is listed as Vulnerable by the IUCN, but the fish sold in US stores are almost always tank-bred. Because it is small, hardy and peaceful, it is one of the few barbs shrimp keepers ask about.

Cherry barbs at a glance

Will cherry barbs eat shrimp?

• Adults: usually not. The Shrimp Farm's tankmates guide rates cherry barbs "does not eat adult shrimp". Aquarium Co-Op is more cautious: it says they may try to go after adult cherry shrimp, so give the shrimp plenty of cover and be prepared to move the fish or the shrimp.
• Shrimplets: yes. The Shrimp Farm's cherry barb guide says they will definitely try to eat the babies. Wild cherry barbs eat aquatic insects, small crustaceans and zooplankton (Seriously Fish, Aquarium Co-Op), and a newborn shrimp fits that menu.
• Which shrimp: The Shrimp Farm suggests a prolific species such as cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) that can handle the losses, in a well-planted tank, or something bigger such as Amano shrimp. Aquarium Co-Op also says they do okay with Amanos.

Our reading: the references agree that shrimplets are at risk and differ a little on adult cherry shrimp, so treat this as a display pairing, not a breeding tank. Practical Fishkeeping's writer puts larger barbs in the group that will eat shrimp sooner or later; the cherry barb is one of the smallest barbs (The Shrimp Farm says the similar rosy barb grows almost three times as long), which is why it is a "maybe" rather than a "no". Compare the full list in cherry shrimp tank mates.

Matching the water

The shared zone is our comparison of the published ranges, not a tested target. The Shrimp Farm says tank-bred cherry barbs are very flexible and do well in dechlorinated tap water in most areas, so in practice you set the water for the shrimp and the barbs fit in. See shrimp GH and KH explained, shrimp tank pH and shrimp tank temperature.

Tank size and setup

• Size: The Shrimp Farm says a 20-gallon long comfortably holds a small group with room for one or two tankmates. Seriously Fish gives a 24 × 12 in base as the minimum, and Aquarium Co-Op says six fit in 10 gallons or more but that bigger groups are more outgoing. For a barb group plus a shrimp colony, we would start at 20 gallons. See how many shrimp per gallon.
• Dense plants and a dark background: all three references say colors look best over dark substrate with lots of plants and driftwood. That same cover is what protects shrimp; see java moss, best plants for a shrimp tank and driftwood and botanicals. The Shrimp Farm says cherry barbs only pick at algae and diatoms, not at aquatic plants.
• Some flow, not a torrent: The Shrimp Farm and Seriously Fish say they like a little water movement but don't need strong filtration. A sponge or guarded intake keeps shrimplets safe; see shrimp-safe filters.
• Where they swim: Aquarium Co-Op says cherry barbs tend to stay in the middle to lower levels, so they will cross paths with shrimp more than surface fish do.

Group size and the males

Cherry barbs are a schooling species. Kept alone they become skittish and pale (The Shrimp Farm), so plan for a real group: at least 6 to 10 (Seriously Fish) or 8 to 10 or more (The Shrimp Farm). Aquarium Co-Op suggests at least one or two females per male, because males show their best red when females are present. More fish means more mouths near the shrimp, which is one more reason to size the tank generously.

Feeding both

• Small, varied foods for the barbs: Seriously Fish recommends small live and frozen foods such as Daphnia, Artemia and bloodworm alongside good flakes or granules with some plant content. Aquarium Co-Op uses nano pellets, daphnia and spirulina flakes. The Shrimp Farm says they also accept algae tablets and gel food.
• Feed the shrimp where the fish aren't: because the barbs also take sinking foods, drop shrimp food into dense plants or a feeding dish after the fish have eaten. See best shrimp food and what do shrimp eat.
• Well-fed fish hunt less. Practical Fishkeeping lists keeping fish well fed, with plenty of plants and hiding places, as ways to reduce losses.

Eggs and fry in a shrimp tank

Cherry barbs scatter sticky eggs on fine-leaved plants and give no parental care, and the adults eat their own eggs and fry (The Shrimp Farm, Aquarium Co-Op). In a heavily planted tank a few fry may survive without help. If you want to raise them, both references suggest a separate breeding tank. A dense moss mat serves barb fry and shrimplets alike.

Buying healthy cherry barbs

The Shrimp Farm suggests choosing vibrant, active fish with slightly rounded bellies, and warns that young rosy barbs look similar but grow to 5 inches or more: a horizontal stripe means cherry barb, a dot means rosy barb. A rosy barb is not a fish for a shrimp tank. Albino and long-finned strains are also sold (Aquarium Co-Op, Seriously Fish).

How to add cherry barbs to a shrimp tank

• Shrimp first. Practical Fishkeeping suggests letting the colony build up before adding fish.
• Mature tank: fully cycled and stable; see how to cycle a shrimp tank.
• Quarantine the fish separately. Practical Fishkeeping says many fish medications are not safe for invertebrates. If fish get sick, ask a fish veterinarian or an experienced store about treatment that won't harm the shrimp. See how to quarantine and is copper toxic to shrimp.

Common mistakes

• Assuming every barb is as gentle: tiger, rosy and other larger barbs are a different story.
• Keeping only two or three barbs, which leaves them stressed and washed out.
• Adding them to a prized crystal or bee shrimp tank.
• Counting on a fast-growing cherry colony with barbs present.
• A sparse tank with no moss or cover for shrimplets.
• Medicating fish in the shrimp tank.

Track it

Log temperature, pH, GH and TDS on the free Water Parameter Log printable so you can keep the tank in the range both species share.

Frequently asked questions

Do cherry barbs eat shrimp?

They eat baby shrimp. The Shrimp Farm rates them as not eating adult shrimp but says they will try to eat the babies, and Aquarium Co-Op says they may go after adult cherry shrimp.

Can cherry barbs live with cherry shrimp?

Often, in a densely planted tank. The Shrimp Farm suggests a prolific shrimp like cherries that can handle some losses. Give the shrimp plenty of cover and expect the colony to grow slowly.

Can cherry barbs live with Amano shrimp?

Yes. The Shrimp Farm and Aquarium Co-Op both point to larger Amano shrimp as a good match for cherry barbs.

Are cherry barbs fin-nippers?

No. The Shrimp Farm and Aquarium Co-Op both describe cherry barbs as peaceful barbs that do not nip their tankmates, unlike tiger barbs.

How many cherry barbs should I keep in a shrimp tank?

At least 6 to 10, per Seriously Fish, or 8 to 10 or more, per The Shrimp Farm, which suggests a 20-gallon long for a small group.

What water do cherry barbs and cherry shrimp share?

By our comparison of the published ranges, about 72 to 80 °F, pH 6.2 to 8.0 and GH 4 to 8.

Sources: The Shrimp Farm, Shrimp tankmates and compatibility (cherry barb: Rohanella titteya, formerly Puntius titteya, up to 2 in, 20+ gallons, beginner-proof, does not eat adult shrimp; friendly, hardy, fine for community tanks with and without shrimp); The Shrimp Farm, Cherry barb care (southwestern Sri Lanka; up to about 2 in; not nippy; now in its own genus Rohanella since 2023; IUCN Vulnerable, US store fish almost always tank-bred; shallow, slow, clear to tinted streams with sand and leaf litter; 20-gallon long for a small group plus one or two tankmates; some flow; pH 6.0–8.0, 68–83 °F, TDS 30–300, flexible in dechlorinated tap water; skittish and pale alone, group of at least 8, preferably 10+; not the best shrimp tankmates, will try to eat the babies; prolific Neocaridina in a well-planted tank, or bigger Amanos; omnivores, eat diatoms and algae, accept floating and sinking omnivore foods, algae tablets, gel food, live and frozen foods; only pick at algae and diatoms, not plants; egg-scatterers, adults eat offspring, separate breeding tank; vibrant, active fish with rounded bellies; rosy barbs look similar young but reach 5+ in, stripe vs dot; rosy barb almost triple the length); Seriously Fish, Puntius titteya (cherry barb) (Kelani and Nilwala basins, Sri Lanka's wet zone; 50 mm SL; 60 × 30 cm base, about 54 litres; 20–27 °C, pH 6.0–8.0, 2–20 dGH; farm-raised fish adaptable; heavily planted with dark substrate, floating plants, driftwood, leaf litter; filtration need not be strong but appreciates some movement; foragers on diatoms, algae, detritus, insects, worms, crustaceans, zooplankton; small live and frozen foods plus flakes with plant content; very peaceful schooling species, at least 6–10; albino and super red strains); Aquarium Co-Op, Care guide for cherry barbs (2-inch schooling fish, mild-mannered; 72–80 °F, pH 6.0–8.0, soft to hard water; planted tank, darker substrate, driftwood; group of six in 10 gallons or more, more fish more outgoing; 1–2 females per male; mid to bottom levels; okay with bigger Amanos, may try to go after adult cherry shrimp, add hiding spots and be prepared to remove; omnivores, nano pellets, daphnia, spirulina flakes; easy to breed, adults hunt their offspring; albino and long-fin varieties); Practical Fishkeeping, What can I keep with shrimp? (larger tetras and barbs in the group that will eat shrimp sooner or later; plants, hiding places and well-fed fish reduce losses; let the colony build first; many fish medications unsafe for invertebrates); The Shrimp Farm, Red rili shrimp tank set-up and care (cherry-type Neocaridina: 65–85 °F, pH 6.2–8.0, GH 4–8). The shared water zone is our own comparison of these ranges.