Ember tetras with shrimp

By the Shrimp Tank Hub editorsUpdated Oct 25, 2026Research-based

The ember tetra (Hyphessobrycon amandae) is a tiny orange tetra from the Araguaia River basin in central Brazil. It grows to about 2 cm (0.8 in) and is one of the smallest tetras in the hobby (Seriously Fish, Aquarium Co-Op). The Shrimp Farm calls it "shrimp-proof" for adult shrimp and says embers make excellent tankmates for both Neocaridina and Caridina dwarf shrimp, as long as shrimplets have cover.

Ember tetra at a glance

Will ember tetras eat shrimp?

• Adults: no. Aquarium Co-Op says embers leave adult shrimp alone, and The Shrimp Farm says they would struggle to eat anything but newly hatched shrimp.
• Shrimplets: some. Aquarium Co-Op says almost all fish will go after baby shrimp when they get the chance. The Shrimp Farm adds that newborn shrimp spend their first weeks hiding in dense plants, so losses should be minimal with enough cover.
• Behavior: Practical Fishkeeping notes that shrimp kept with fish may hide more and breed less, and that fish usually beat shrimp to food. It also warns that larger tetras are likely to eat shrimp, so stick with tiny species like embers.

For most tanks the trade-off is mild: a planted tank with moss lets a cherry shrimp colony keep growing. For rare or expensive shrimp, or if you sell shrimp, Practical Fishkeeping's advice is that a shrimp-only tank is safer. See cherry shrimp tank mates for other options.

Matching the water

Ember tetras come from soft, acidic water, while cherry shrimp and other Neocaridina are usually kept neutral to slightly hard. The ranges overlap:

The shared zone is our comparison of the published ranges, not a tested target. Tank-bred embers are more flexible than wild fish (The Shrimp Farm), and Aquarium Co-Op gives pH 5.5 to 7.5. The Shrimp Farm suggests remineralized RO water if your tap is above pH 7.5 or TDS 250, and warns against fast fixes like pH-down products: change parameters over weeks, not days, and match temperature and parameters at water changes. Soft-water Caridina such as crystal red shrimp overlap closely with embers. See shrimp water parameters, shrimp tank pH, TDS explained and remineralizing RO water.

Tank size and setup

• Size: Seriously Fish suggests a base of at least 45 × 30 cm (18 × 12 in), about 11 gallons. The Shrimp Farm says a 10-gallon long is enough for a small school, and bigger lets you keep more. Aquarium Co-Op says a small school can live in a 5-gallon, but for embers plus a shrimp colony, 10 gallons is a more practical minimum. See how many shrimp per gallon.
• Plants: all three sources recommend a heavily planted tank. Seriously Fish and The Shrimp Farm suggest floating plants, driftwood and leaf litter; Aquarium Co-Op says embers color up best over a dark substrate and background. Dense plants and moss are also what keep shrimplets safe. See best plants for a shrimp tank, java moss and driftwood and botanicals.
• Filter: gentle flow. Seriously Fish says an air-powered sponge filter is normally enough, and Aquarium Co-Op prefers a sponge filter or pre-filter sponge, which also protects shrimplets. See shrimp-safe filters.
• Maturity: The Shrimp Farm says embers should always go in a fully cycled tank. See how to cycle a shrimp tank.

Feeding both

• Small foods for the fish: embers have tiny mouths. Seriously Fish suggests dried foods of a suitable size plus daily small live and frozen foods such as baby brine shrimp, moina and grindal worms; The Shrimp Farm adds frozen bloodworms and daphnia. Aquarium Co-Op prefers tiny, slow-sinking foods.
• Feed the shrimp too: Seriously Fish says embers stay mostly in the middle-to-upper water, so sinking shrimp food that lands on the bottom usually reaches the shrimp. Practical Fishkeeping notes that fish tend to beat shrimp to food, so drop shrimp food in a second spot.
• Don't overfeed: leftover food fouls the water for both. See best shrimp food and what shrimp eat.

How to add ember tetras to a shrimp tank

• Shrimp first. Practical Fishkeeping suggests letting the shrimp colony build up before adding fish, so there are enough hiding shrimplets to keep it growing.
• Quarantine the fish elsewhere. Practical Fishkeeping warns that many fish medications aren't invertebrate-safe, so treat fish in a separate tank. See how to quarantine and copper and shrimp.
• Add a full group at once, slowly acclimated, so they school and settle. The Shrimp Farm says store fish often look dull and brighten once settled.
• Keep water changes shrimp-sized. Small, matched changes suit both. See shrimp tank water changes.
• Watch for losses. A dead fish hidden in plants can cause an ammonia spike (Practical Fishkeeping). See ammonia and nitrite in a shrimp tank.

Breeding: fish and shrimp in the same tank

Ember tetras are egg scatterers with no parental care, and The Shrimp Farm says they will eat their own newly hatched fry if they find them. Even so, Seriously Fish and The Shrimp Farm say a few fry may appear on their own in a mature, densely planted tank. Your shrimp will keep breeding too, just with fewer survivors than in a shrimp-only tank. See baby shrimp care for ways to help shrimplets.

Common mistakes

• Adding embers to a new tank before it is cycled and mature.
• Keeping only a few, which leaves them shy and pale.
• Bare tanks with no moss, where shrimplets have nowhere to hide.
• Chasing soft water with fast chemical pH changes.
• Choosing larger tetras, which are much more likely to eat shrimp.

Track it

Log temperature, pH, GH and TDS on the free Water Parameter Log printable so you can keep the tank in the range both species share.

Frequently asked questions

Can ember tetras live with cherry shrimp?

Yes. They are peaceful and tiny, and they leave adult shrimp alone. The Shrimp Farm calls them excellent tankmates for both Neocaridina and Caridina shrimp, but some newborn shrimplets will be eaten.

Will ember tetras eat baby shrimp?

Some. Almost all fish will eat shrimplets they find (Aquarium Co-Op). Newborn shrimp hide in dense plants for their first weeks, so losses are small in a well-planted tank with moss.

How many ember tetras should I keep with shrimp?

A school of at least 8 to 10 (Seriously Fish). A bigger group is calmer and shows better color.

What size tank do ember tetras and shrimp need?

About 10 gallons or larger. Seriously Fish suggests a base of at least 18 × 12 in (45 × 30 cm), about 11 gallons, and The Shrimp Farm says a 10-gallon long suits a small school.

What water works for both?

Ember tetras like soft, acidic to neutral water (pH 5.0 to 7.0, 68 to 82 °F). Cherry shrimp are often kept at pH 6.2 to 8.0. Aim for the overlap, about pH 6.2 to 7.0 and GH 4 to 8, and keep it stable.

Are ember tetras good with Caridina shrimp?

Their soft, acidic water preference overlaps well with crystal and bee shrimp, and The Shrimp Farm recommends them for both. The shrimplet trade-off is the same, so keepers of expensive Caridina often choose a shrimp-only tank.

Should I add ember tetras or shrimp first?

Shrimp first. Practical Fishkeeping suggests letting the colony build up before adding fish, and The Shrimp Farm says embers need a fully cycled tank.

Sources: Seriously Fish, Hyphessobrycon amandae (ember tetra) (Hyphessobrycon amandae; Rio das Mortes and the Araguaia system, central Brazil; backwaters and oxbow lakes with soft, weakly acidic water and leaf litter; 20 mm SL; base at least 45 × 30 cm, about 41 L/11 US gal; heavily planted, dark substrate, floating plants, driftwood, leaf litter; gentle air-powered sponge filtration; 20–28 °C, pH 5.0–7.0, 1–10 dGH; micropredator, dried foods plus daily small live and frozen foods such as Artemia nauplii, Moina and grindal worm; very peaceful; middle-to-upper water; group of at least 8–10; egg scatterer, no parental care; fry may appear in a mature tank); The Shrimp Farm, Ember tetra care (calls embers shrimp-proof; no more than about 1.2 in; Araguaia basin floodplain habitats; 10-gallon long for a small school; pH 5.0–7.0, 68–82 °F, TDS 20–200; remineralized RO if tap above pH 7.5 or TDS 250; avoid pH-down products, change slowly; fully cycled tank; match parameters at water changes; peaceful, not nippy; group of at least 6–8; avoid angelfish and boisterous fish; would struggle to eat anything but newly hatched shrimp, which hide in dense plants; excellent tankmates for Neocaridina and Caridina; microcarnivore staple plus frozen bloodworms and daphnia; eat their own newly hatched fry, colonies may grow in densely planted tanks; store fish look dull until settled); Aquarium Co-Op, Care guide for ember tetras (up to 0.8 in; pH 5.5–7.5, 72–82 °F, very soft to moderately hard; slow flow, sponge filter or pre-filter; brighter on dark substrate; at least 6–10; leave adult shrimp alone, almost all fish go after baby shrimp, provide dense plants and caves; tiny slow-sinking foods; get along with dwarf shrimp); Practical Fishkeeping, What can I keep with shrimp? (larger tetras likely to eat shrimp; shrimp may hide and breed less with fish; fish beat shrimp to food; let the colony build before adding fish; medications often not invertebrate-safe; hidden dead fish cause ammonia spikes; shrimp-only best for breeding); The Shrimp Farm, Red rili shrimp tank set-up and care (Neocaridina range used for comparison: pH 6.2–8.0, 65–85 °F, GH 4–8).