Tiger shrimp care
Tiger shrimp are the striped Caridina of the dwarf shrimp hobby: a see-through body with dark bands along the back, and in the popular orange-eyed blue tiger (OEBT), a blue body with bright orange eyes. They sit between cherry shrimp and crystal reds in difficulty. They want cleaner, softer and more stable water than Neocaridina, but most sources treat them as a little more flexible than bee shrimp.
What is a tiger shrimp?
Aquarium tiger shrimp were long sold as Caridina cantonensis or C. cf. cantonensis. In 2014 Klotz and von Rintelen described the tiger shrimp as its own species, Caridina mariae, known in the wild from two localities in Guangdong province, southern China. Its natural pattern is a semi-transparent body with a dark blotch on the lower carapace and dark stripes across the back of the carapace and the first six abdominal segments. Adults reach roughly 1 inch (2.5 cm), and females are larger than males.
Shop names are hobby names, and labels aren't always right. Common types include:
| Type | Look | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Standard (wild-type) tiger | Clear to tan body with dark stripes | The original pattern. |
| Orange-eyed blue tiger (OEBT) | Blue body, black stripes, orange eyes | The Shrimp Farm notes the orange eyes breed true, but the blue doesn't pass to every baby, so colonies include lighter or "blonde" shrimp. It also calls OEBTs a little fragile, likely from inbreeding. |
| Red tiger | Clear body with strong red stripes | A red color form; The Shrimp Farm rates it intermediate and less common in the hobby. |
| Tiger × bee crosses ("Tibee" and similar) | Varied patterns | Hybrids with bee shrimp. Practical Fishkeeping notes these crosses don't revert to a wild form the way cherry shrimp colors do. |
Not sure which group your shrimp belong to? See Caridina vs Neocaridina.
Water parameters
| Parameter | Commonly cited range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| pH | About 6.0–7.5 | The Shrimp Farm's OEBT range; its red tiger sheet goes up to 8. Slightly acidic water is a common target. |
| GH | 4–10 dGH | Enough calcium and magnesium for molting; see shrimp GH and KH explained. |
| KH | 2–6 dKH (some keepers run 0–2 on an active soil) | Lower KH lets the pH sit lower. |
| TDS | About 150–250 ppm | Useful for repeating your remineralizer recipe; see shrimp TDS explained. |
| Temperature | About 65–75 °F (18–24 °C) | Cooler and steady is the usual advice; see shrimp tank temperature. |
| Ammonia / nitrite | 0 | Never add shrimp to an uncycled tank. |
Sources differ here. Practical Fishkeeping groups tigers with bee shrimp and suggests the softer, cooler bee-style water (about 18–23 °C, 5 °dH, 0–2 °KH, pH 6–6.8), while Dennerle's "generic" shrimp salt is aimed at Neocaridina and tiger shrimp at pH 7.0–7.5 and 6–8 °dH. In practice, tigers are kept successfully in both styles of water. Pick one, then keep it steady. For the full chart across species, see shrimp water parameters.
RO water or tap water?
If your tap water is soft and close to the ranges above, dechlorinated tap water can work; test it first (see can shrimp live in tap water). The Shrimp Farm says red tigers won't do well in hard tap water and need RO water instead. With RO, add a shrimp remineralizer to rebuild GH (and KH, if you are aiming for the neutral style); see remineralizing RO water for shrimp.
Tank setup
- Tank size: The Shrimp Farm suggests 10 gallons (38 L) as a good start, because bigger tanks swing less. Experienced keepers sometimes use 5 gallons.
- Cycle it first: ammonia and nitrite can kill a colony quickly. See how to cycle a shrimp tank.
- Filter: a sponge filter, or any filter with an intake cover so babies aren't pulled in. See shrimp-safe filters.
- Substrate: an active soil if you want soft, acidic water, or an inert substrate for the neutral style. See best substrate for shrimp.
- Cover: plants, moss and wood. Shrimp with plenty of hiding places tend to come out more; see Java moss for shrimp and why shrimp hide.
- Heater: only to keep the temperature steady in a cold room; tigers don't need warm water. See nano shrimp tank heaters.
- No copper: check medications, fertilizers and foods. See is copper toxic to shrimp.
Adding tiger shrimp
Buy from a breeder or shop whose water you know, and ask for their pH, GH and TDS so you can match it. Acclimate slowly, because a sudden change in water is a common cause of early losses; see how to drip acclimate shrimp. Starting with a group of ten or more gives you a better chance of both sexes and a breeding colony.
Feeding
Tiger shrimp graze biofilm and algae all day. Supplement with a quality shrimp food, plus blanched vegetables, leaf litter or algae wafers now and then. The Shrimp Farm names overfeeding as a major cause of shrimp deaths: feed small amounts, and remove anything not eaten within a few hours. See what shrimp eat and best shrimp food.
Water changes
The Shrimp Farm suggests about 20% a week as a starting point, adjusted to your test results, with new water matched for temperature (and for TDS if you use RO). Small regular changes keep the tank stable. See shrimp tank water changes.
Breeding
In a stable tank, tigers breed without special help. Females carry eggs under the tail for about 30 days. The babies hatch as tiny, fully formed shrimp, with no larval stage that needs salt water, so they grow up in the same tank. Protect them with a sponge pre-filter and plenty of moss. See berried shrimp care and baby shrimp care.
Interbreeding: tigers and bee shrimp
Tiger shrimp don't cross with cherry shrimp or other Neocaridina. They can cross with bee-type Caridina such as crystal reds and Taiwan bees (see our blue bolt shrimp care guide), which is where "Tibee" shrimp come from. If you want pure tigers or pure crystal reds, keep one line per tank. See crystal red shrimp care.
Grading OEBTs
Blue tigers vary from very dark blue to light blue, and darker shrimp usually sell for more. The Shrimp Farm points out that color is not a sign of quality or health. If you want a darker line, move the best-colored adults into a separate tank to breed.
Tank mates
For breeding, a shrimp-only tank is best: almost any fish will eat baby shrimp. Snails such as nerites are safe companions. See shrimp tank mates and snails with shrimp.
Common mistakes
- Adding shrimp before the tank is cycled and has had time to mature.
- Large, sudden water changes or top-offs with untested water.
- Overfeeding, and leaving uneaten food in the tank.
- Keeping tigers with bee shrimp and then being surprised by hybrids.
- Running the tank too warm in summer.
If shrimp are dying, work through why are my shrimp dying.
Track it
Log pH, GH, TDS and temperature on the free Water Parameter Log printable, so you can see what changed before any losses.
Frequently asked questions
Are tiger shrimp easy to keep?
They are moderate: harder than cherry shrimp, usually a little easier than crystal reds. They need a mature, cycled tank, soft and stable water, and careful feeding.
What water parameters do tiger shrimp need?
Commonly cited ranges are about pH 6–7.5, GH 4–10, KH 2–6, TDS 150–250 and 65–75 °F (18–24 °C). Keeping the numbers stable matters more than hitting exact values.
Can tiger shrimp live in tap water?
Sometimes, if your tap water is soft and close to their range. With hard tap water, use RO water with a shrimp remineralizer instead.
Do tiger shrimp breed with crystal red shrimp?
They can. Tigers cross with bee-type Caridina such as crystal reds and Taiwan bees, producing hybrids often called Tibees. Keep one line per tank to keep them pure.
Do tiger shrimp breed with cherry shrimp?
No. Cherry shrimp are Neocaridina, and tigers are Caridina; the two don't interbreed.
How long are tiger shrimp pregnant?
Females carry their eggs for about 30 days. The babies hatch as tiny shrimp and need no salt water.
Why are some of my blue tiger babies not blue?
The blue color doesn't pass to every baby, so OEBT colonies include lighter or clear shrimp. The orange eyes do breed true.
Sources: Klotz & von Rintelen (2014), Zootaxa 3889(2): 151–184 and Seriously Fish, New shrimp from Hong Kong and southern China (tiger shrimp described as Caridina mariae; formerly sold as C. cantonensis; known from two localities in Guangdong; color pattern); The Shrimp Farm, Blue tiger shrimp (Caridina mariae 'Blue Tiger') (10 gallon starting size; sponge filter or intake cover; hiding places; cycled tank; about 20% weekly water changes as a start; pH 6–7.5, 65–75 °F, GH 4–10, KH 2–6, TDS 150–250; overfeeding a major cause of death; eggs carried about 30 days; orange eyes breed true, blue doesn't always pass on; color not a sign of health); The Shrimp Farm, Red tiger shrimp tank set-up and care (intermediate difficulty; hard tap water unsuitable, use RO; pH 6–8, 62–78 °F; shrimp-only tank for breeding); Practical Fishkeeping, An introduction to shrimp (bee and tiger shrimp group, about 18–23 °C, 5 °dH, 0–2 °KH, pH 6–6.8; Tibee hybrids; Caridina crosses don't revert to a wild form); Practical Fishkeeping, Review: Shrimp King salts from Dennerle (Dennerle's generic salt aimed at Neocaridina and tiger shrimp, pH about 7.0–7.5, 6–8 °dH). The group size, acclimation and grading-line notes are Shrimp Tank Hub's.