Bloodfin tetras with shrimp

By the Shrimp Tank Hub editorsUpdated Oct 27, 2026Research-based

The bloodfin tetra is a silvery characin with blood-red fins, from the Paraná River basin in Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay (Seriously Fish), where it lives in streams shaded by thick vegetation (Maidenhead Aquatics). It is Aphyocharax anisitsi, sometimes sold as the Argentine bloodfin (Maidenhead Aquatics). Seriously Fish calls it a good beginner's tetra that adapts to a wide range of conditions, can be kept unheated in a well-insulated house, and can live more than ten years in captivity.

Bloodfin tetra at a glance

Will bloodfin tetras eat shrimp?

• Adult shrimp: some risk. None of our sources tested bloodfins with shrimp. Aquarium Co-Op says to avoid medium to large fish with cherry shrimp, and Practical Fishkeeping's Nathan Hill personally counts the larger tetras among fish that will eventually eat shrimp. Bloodfins mostly swim in the upper part of the tank (Seriously Fish), but in our reading a fast, nippy 2-inch fish will pick at a small male or a freshly molted cherry.
• Shrimplets: expect them to be eaten. Neale Monks at Practical Fishkeeping says pretty much any active fish, even one as small as a tetra, views hatchling shrimp as food.
• Eggs and berried females: eggs are safe while carried under the tail, though a berried female that gets harassed may drop them (our reading).

Dense moss and plants let some babies survive (Aquarium Co-Op), but an active group of bloodfins will find most of each hatch. Gentler choices include ember tetras with shrimp and white cloud minnows with shrimp; for similar risk, compare X-ray tetras with shrimp and Buenos Aires tetras with shrimp, or see the full cherry shrimp tank mates list.

Matching the water

Seriously Fish lists 64–82 °F, pH 6.0–8.0 and 3–25 dGH, and Maidenhead Aquatics goes down to 59 °F with pH 6.0–8.0. Fishkeeping.co.uk disagrees on water chemistry: it says soft, slightly acidic water helps them thrive, and that hard, alkaline water can cause sterility, while the other two accept up to 25 dGH. Cherry-type shrimp tolerate 65–85 °F, pH 6.2–8.0 and GH 4–8 (The Shrimp Farm). By our comparison, about 68–78 °F, pH 6.5–7.5 and GH 4–8 suits both, and that range also keeps the fish on the softer side. Both sources say bloodfins color up better in warmer water. Crystal and other Caridina want soft, acidic water (see crystal red shrimp care), and bloodfins will eat their babies, so we would keep them in their own tank (our reading). See shrimp tank pH, GH and KH explained and shrimp tank temperature.

Tank size and setup

• Size: Seriously Fish says a base of 24 × 12 in, about 14 US gallons, suits a small group; Fishkeeping.co.uk gives 24 × 15 × 12 in and 70 liters. For a group of 10 active fish plus shrimp, our reading is that a 30-inch tank is more comfortable.
• A tight lid: Seriously Fish says they jump, and Maidenhead Aquatics calls them expert jumpers.
• Planted, with open water: Seriously Fish recommends dense planting with open swimming areas, roots and bogwood, plus floating plants since they use the upper water. Maidenhead Aquatics suggests a dark substrate and background and fairly gentle flow. Thick moss gives shrimp cover (Aquarium Co-Op). See java moss for shrimp and best plants for shrimp tanks.
• Mature tank: shrimp need a cycled, stable tank. See how to cycle a shrimp tank.
• Shrimp-safe intake: a sponge filter or pre-filter keeps shrimplets out of the intake (our suggestion). See shrimp-safe filters.

Group size and behavior

Seriously Fish says to keep at least 6, since they shoal by nature, and Maidenhead Aquatics says 6 or more, with 10 or more better. Seriously Fish calls them peaceful enough but says they may nip long-finned or slow tankmates; Maidenhead Aquatics recommends other fast, short-finned fish. Males are slimmer and develop tiny hooks on the anal fin as they mature (Seriously Fish, Maidenhead Aquatics).

Other tankmates

Seriously Fish suggests other characins in a mixed shoal, Corydoras and small Loricariids. Fishkeeping.co.uk warns that larger cichlids such as angelfish will prey on them. Avoid long-finned fish such as bettas and fancy guppies (Maidenhead Aquatics). See corydoras with shrimp and otocinclus with shrimp.

Feeding both

Seriously Fish says they are unfussy and take most dried, frozen and live foods. Maidenhead Aquatics lists flake, micropellets and small frozen foods such as Daphnia, brine shrimp, bloodworm and mosquito larvae. Since they feed high in the tank, feed the tetras first at the surface, then drop sinking shrimp food into a planted corner (our suggestion). See best shrimp food.

How to add bloodfin tetras to a shrimp tank

• Shrimp first. Practical Fishkeeping suggests letting the shrimp colony build up before adding fish; hiding places and well-fed fish reduce losses.
• Consider bigger shrimp. Neale Monks suggests larger shrimp such as Amanos when the fish are likely to eat babies. See Amano shrimp care.
• Acclimate slowly to your water. See how to drip acclimate.
• Watch shrimp numbers for the first few weeks, especially after molts.
• Quarantine the fish separately. Practical Fishkeeping says many fish medications are not safe for invertebrates. If fish get sick, ask a fish veterinarian or an experienced store about treatment that won't harm the shrimp. See how to quarantine and is copper toxic to shrimp.

Common mistakes

• Leaving a gap in the lid; bloodfins are expert jumpers (Maidenhead Aquatics).
• Keeping only two or three, which tends to make nipping worse (our reading); keep 6 to 10 or more.
• Adding them to a tank with long-finned fish such as bettas.
• Expecting a cherry colony to grow next to a fast, hungry shoal.

Track it

Log temperature, pH, GH and TDS on the free Water Parameter Log printable so you can keep the tank in the range both species share.

Frequently asked questions

Will bloodfin tetras eat cherry shrimp?

They will eat shrimplets, and in our reading small or freshly molted adults are at some risk from these fast, slightly nippy fish. We rate them a moderate to high risk.

How big do bloodfin tetras get?

About 2.2 inches (55 mm standard length) per Seriously Fish, 2 inches (5 cm) per Maidenhead Aquatics, or 2.4 inches (6 cm) per Fishkeeping.co.uk.

Do bloodfin tetras need a heater?

Often not. Seriously Fish says they can be kept unheated in a well-insulated house and lists 64 to 82 °F, though they are less colorful in cooler water.

Do bloodfin tetras jump?

Yes. Seriously Fish says the tank needs a very tight cover, and Maidenhead Aquatics calls them expert jumpers.

How many bloodfin tetras should I keep?

At least 6 (Seriously Fish); Maidenhead Aquatics says 10 or more is better.

Are bloodfin tetras fin nippers?

They can be. Seriously Fish says they may nip long-finned or slow tankmates, and Maidenhead Aquatics recommends keeping them with fast, short-finned fish.

Sources: Seriously Fish, Aphyocharax anisitsi (bloodfin tetra) (Aphyocharax anisitsi; endemic to the Paraná drainage in Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina; streams shaded by floating or overhanging plants; hardy, adapts widely, can be kept unheated in a well-insulated house but is less colorful cool; over ten years in captivity; 55 mm SL; base 60 × 30 cm, about 14 US gal; 18–28 °C, pH 6.0–8.0, 3–25 dGH; dense planting, open swimming, roots and bogwood, floating plants, upper water; very tight cover, jumps; unfussy diet; peaceful enough but may nip long-finned or slow fish; mixed characin shoal, Corydoras, small Loricariids; at least 6; males slimmer with fin hooks; good beginner tetra); Maidenhead Aquatics (fishkeeper.co.uk), Bloodfin tetra (Argentina, Brazil, Paraguay and Uruguay; Paraná basin streams among thick vegetation; 5 cm; 15–28 °C; pH 6.0–8.0, dH up to 25; heavily planted, dark substrate and background, gentle flow; groups of 6 or more, 10+ better; rather nippy, keep with fast short-finned fish, avoid elaborate finnage; expert jumpers, tight cover; room temperature possible, better colors warmer; flake, micropellets, small frozen foods; sold as Argentine bloodfin; males slimmer with tiny anal-fin hooks); Fishkeeping.co.uk, Bloodfin tetra caresheet (6 cm; 70 liters, 24 × 15 × 12 in; 18–28 °C; pH 6.0–7.5; 3–30 dGH; planted with bogwood, roots and rocks; shoals with other tetras, Corydoras and small Loricariids; larger cichlids such as angelfish will eat them; soft, slightly acidic water helps, hard alkaline water can cause sterility); Practical Fishkeeping, can I safely add some shrimp? (Neale Monks: almost any active fish, even a small tetra, eats hatchling shrimp; larger shrimp such as Amanos); Practical Fishkeeping, What can I keep with shrimp? (Nathan Hill personally lists larger tetras among fish that will eventually eat shrimp; let shrimp numbers build first; hiding places; well-fed fish; many medications unsafe for invertebrates); Aquarium Co-Op, Cherry shrimp tank mates (avoid medium to large fish; moss and plants for baby shrimp); The Shrimp Farm, Red rili shrimp tank set-up and care (cherry-type range 65–85 °F, pH 6.2–8.0, GH 4–8). Risk rating, tank-length suggestion and the shared water range are our reading of these sources.