Gold tetras with shrimp
The gold tetra, or golden tetra, is Hemigrammus rodwayi, a small characin from Guyana, Suriname, French Guiana, Peru and Brazil, where it lives in slow rivers, tributaries, floodplain lakes and coastal creeks (Seriously Fish, Maidenhead Aquatics). Despite the name, its normal color is a rather dull silvery grey. Both sources explain that in some wild populations a trematode parasite triggers a skin reaction that deposits metallic, gold-colored guanine; those fish were once described as a separate species, H. armstrongi. Captive-bred fish aren't exposed to the parasite, so most gold tetras on sale aren't gold. Maidenhead Aquatics adds that many slimmer silver fish sold under the name are probably Hyphessobrycon saizi. For other small, peaceful tetras, see head-and-tail-light tetras and lemon tetras.
Gold tetra at a glance
| Gold tetra (Hemigrammus rodwayi) | |
|---|---|
| Adult size | 55 mm (2.2 in) standard length (Seriously Fish); 5.5 cm (2.2 in) (Maidenhead Aquatics) |
| Temperature | 75–82 °F (24–28 °C) (Seriously Fish, Maidenhead Aquatics) |
| pH | 5.5–7.0 (Seriously Fish, Maidenhead Aquatics) |
| Hardness | 1–12 dGH (Seriously Fish); soft, KH up to 12 (Maidenhead Aquatics) |
| Tank | Base of at least 24 × 15 in (60 × 38 cm), about 18 US gallons (Seriously Fish) |
| Group | At least 6, preferably 10 or more (Seriously Fish, Maidenhead Aquatics) |
| Diet | Easy; accepts just about anything, plus small live and frozen foods (Seriously Fish) |
| Temperament | Very peaceful; won't compete with boisterous or much larger fish (Seriously Fish) |
Will gold tetras eat shrimp?
- Adult shrimp: usually safe. None of our sources tested gold tetras with shrimp. Aquarium Co-Op says to avoid medium to large fish with cherry shrimp, and a very peaceful 2-inch tetra is at the small end. In our reading, full-grown female cherries are too big for them, but small males and freshly molted shrimp are more exposed.
- Shrimplets: expect them to be eaten. Seriously Fish says gold tetras do best on small live and frozen foods such as bloodworm, Daphnia and brine shrimp, and Neale Monks at Practical Fishkeeping says pretty much any active fish, even one as small as a tetra, views hatchling shrimp as food.
- Eggs and berried females: eggs are safe while carried under the tail.
Dense moss and plants let some babies survive (Aquarium Co-Op), but a shoal of tetras will thin out each hatch. For similar choices, compare ember tetras with shrimp, glowlight tetras with shrimp and ornate tetras with shrimp, or see the full cherry shrimp tank mates list.
Matching the water
Seriously Fish lists 75–82 °F, pH 5.5–7.0 and 1–12 dGH, and Maidenhead Aquatics gives 24–28 °C, pH 5.5–7.0 and KH up to 12, describing soft, acidic water. The Shrimp Farm lists 65–80 °F, pH 6.8–8.0 and GH 4–8 for cherry-type shrimp. By our comparison, the overlap is narrow: about 75–78 °F, pH 6.8–7.0 and GH 4–6. That calls for steady water; a tank that drifts acidic suits the tetras but not cherries (our reading). Crystal and other Caridina shrimp share the soft, acidic water but prefer cooler temperatures (see crystal red shrimp care). See shrimp tank pH, GH and KH explained and shrimp tank temperature.
Tank size and setup
- Size: Seriously Fish says a small group needs a tank of about 24 × 15 × 12 in, about 18 US gallons.
- Biotope or planted: Seriously Fish describes river sand, driftwood, roots and dried beech or oak leaves, with fairly dim light, and says the fish also does well in a heavily planted community tank. Maidenhead Aquatics suggests sand, driftwood tangles and Indian almond leaves to tint the water, and says plants are not common in the wild habitat but can be added. Thick moss gives shrimp cover (Aquarium Co-Op). See java moss for shrimp and driftwood and botanicals for shrimp.
- Peat and tannins: both sources suggest peat in the filter to soften and acidify the water. Our reading: with cherry shrimp, add it cautiously and test pH, because the target overlap ends around pH 6.8.
- Mature tank, gentle flow: Maidenhead Aquatics says the tank should be well established, with efficient but not vigorous filtration and small, regular water changes. See how to cycle a shrimp tank.
- Shrimp-safe intake: a sponge filter or pre-filter keeps shrimplets out of the intake (our suggestion). See shrimp-safe filters.
Group size and behavior
Seriously Fish says to buy at least 6, preferably 10 or more, because the fish is a natural shoaler and does much better with its own kind; Maidenhead Aquatics gives the same numbers. Females are rounder in the belly; males have a white leading edge on the anal fin, with more red in it (Seriously Fish, Maidenhead Aquatics). Seriously Fish says it won't compete well with very boisterous or much larger tankmates.
Other tankmates
Seriously Fish suggests other Hemigrammus and Hyphessobrycon tetras, pencilfish, Apistogramma, Corydoras and small Loricariids, or smaller rasboras, barbs and labyrinth fish in a general community. Maidenhead Aquatics adds hatchetfish and Mikrogeophagus, all suited to soft water. Dwarf cichlids hunt shrimp (Aquarium Co-Op), so in a shrimp tank stick to small catfish and other peaceful small fish. See corydoras with shrimp, otocinclus with shrimp and dwarf pencilfish with shrimp.
Feeding both
Seriously Fish says gold tetras are easy to feed and accept just about anything, with regular small live and frozen foods for the best condition. Maidenhead Aquatics lists flake, micropellets and small frozen foods. Feed the tetras first, then drop sinking shrimp food into a planted corner (our suggestion). See best shrimp food.
How to add gold tetras to a shrimp tank
- Shrimp first. Practical Fishkeeping suggests letting the shrimp colony build up before adding fish; hiding places and well-fed fish reduce losses.
- Consider bigger shrimp. Neale Monks suggests larger shrimp such as Amanos when the fish are likely to eat babies. See Amano shrimp care.
- Acclimate slowly. Maidenhead Aquatics says to acclimate gold tetras carefully. See how to drip acclimate.
- Watch shrimp numbers for the first few weeks, especially after molts.
- Quarantine the fish separately. Practical Fishkeeping says many fish medications are not safe for invertebrates. If fish get sick, ask a fish veterinarian or an experienced store about treatment that won't harm the shrimp. See how to quarantine and is copper toxic to shrimp.
Common mistakes
- Expecting metallic gold fish; Seriously Fish says captive-bred gold tetras are silvery grey.
- Letting peat and leaves push the pH well below 6.8 in a tank with cherry shrimp.
- Keeping only a few; both sources say 6 or more, preferably 10.
- Expecting a cherry colony to grow quickly next to a shoal of tetras.
Track it
Log temperature, pH, GH and TDS on the free Water Parameter Log printable so you can keep the tank in the range both species share.
Frequently asked questions
Will gold tetras eat cherry shrimp?
They will eat shrimplets. Full-grown cherry shrimp are usually too big for a 2-inch tetra in our reading, but small or freshly molted shrimp are at some risk. We rate them a moderate risk.
Why is my gold tetra not gold?
Seriously Fish and Maidenhead Aquatics say the gold color is a skin reaction to a parasite in some wild populations. Captive-bred fish are not exposed to it, so they stay silvery grey.
How big do gold tetras get?
About 2.2 inches: 55 mm standard length per Seriously Fish, or 5.5 cm overall per Maidenhead Aquatics.
What water do gold tetras need?
Soft, acidic water: 75 to 82 °F and pH 5.5 to 7.0 (Seriously Fish, Maidenhead Aquatics). With cherry shrimp, the overlap is only about pH 6.8 to 7.0 in our reading.
How many gold tetras should I keep?
At least 6, preferably 10 or more (Seriously Fish, Maidenhead Aquatics).
What size tank do gold tetras need?
A base of at least 24 by 15 inches, about 18 US gallons, for a small group (Seriously Fish).
Sources: Seriously Fish, Hemigrammus rodwayi (golden tetra) (Hemigrammus rodwayi; Guyana, Suriname, French Guiana, Peru and Brazil; slow rivers, tributaries, floodplain lakes, sometimes mildly brackish coastal floodplains; normally dull silvery grey; gold color from guanine deposited in reaction to a trematode parasite, once described as H. armstrongi; captive-bred fish lack it; 55 mm SL; base 60 × 38 cm, about 68 L, 18 US gal; 24–28 °C, pH 5.5–7.0, 1–12 dGH; sand, driftwood, roots, beech or oak leaves, dim light, or heavily planted community; easy to feed, bloodworm, Daphnia, brine shrimp, flakes, granules; very peaceful, won't compete with boisterous or much larger fish; Hemigrammus, Hyphessobrycon, pencilfish, Apistogramma, Corydoras, small Loricariids, smaller rasboras, barbs, anabantoids; at least 6, preferably 10+; females rounder, males white leading edge on anal fin); Maidenhead Aquatics (fishkeeper.co.uk), Gold tetra (Brazil, French Guiana, Guyana, Peru, Suriname; 5.5 cm; 24–28 °C; soft and acidic, pH 5.5–7.0, KH up to 12; medium light; parasite-induced guanine coloring, H. armstrongi a synonym; slimmer silver fish in the trade likely Hyphessobrycon saizi; tank-bred fish not metallic; well-established tank, sand, driftwood, Indian almond leaves, peat; plants not abundant in the wild; minimum 6, preferably 10+; Hemigrammus, Hyphessobrycon, pencilfish, hatchetfish, Apistogramma, Mikrogeophagus, Corydoras, small Loricariids; careful acclimatisation; small regular water changes; filtration efficient but not vigorous; flake, micropellets, frozen foods); Practical Fishkeeping, can I safely add some shrimp? (Neale Monks: almost any active fish, even a small tetra, eats hatchling shrimp; larger shrimp such as Amanos); Practical Fishkeeping, What can I keep with shrimp? (let shrimp numbers build first; hiding places; well-fed fish; many medications unsafe for invertebrates); Aquarium Co-Op, Cherry shrimp tank mates (avoid medium to large fish; dwarf cichlids go after shrimp; moss and plants for baby shrimp); The Shrimp Farm, Red rili shrimp tank set-up and care (cherry-type range 65–80 °F, pH 6.8–8.0, GH 4–8). Risk rating, peat caution and the shared water range are our reading of these sources.