Head-and-tail-light tetras with shrimp

By the Shrimp Tank Hub editorsUpdated Oct 27, 2026Research-based

The head-and-tail-light tetra, also sold as the beacon tetra, is named for the two spots that seem to glow on it: one near the head and a gold-colored “tail light” at the base of the tail (Seriously Fish). It is Holopristis ocellifera, long sold as Hemigrammus ocellifer, and comes from Guyana, Suriname, French Guiana, Peru and Brazil (Seriously Fish). Seriously Fish says it is bred commercially in huge numbers, is hardy and inexpensive, and is one of the best choices for a newcomer to fishkeeping. An albino form is also sold.

Head-and-tail-light tetra at a glance

Will head-and-tail-light tetras eat shrimp?

• Adult shrimp: usually safe. None of our sources tested these tetras with shrimp. Aquarium Co-Op says to avoid medium to large fish with cherry shrimp, and a 2-inch peaceful tetra is at the small end. In our reading, full-grown female cherries are too big for them, but small males and freshly molted shrimp are more exposed.
• Shrimplets: expect them to be eaten. Neale Monks at Practical Fishkeeping says pretty much any active fish, even one as small as a tetra, views hatchling shrimp as food.
• Eggs and berried females: eggs are safe while carried under the tail.

Dense moss and plants let some babies survive (Aquarium Co-Op), but a group of active tetras will thin out each hatch. For similar choices, compare glowlight tetras with shrimp, neon tetras with shrimp and ember tetras with shrimp, or see the full cherry shrimp tank mates list.

Matching the water

Seriously Fish lists 75–82 °F, pH 5.5–7.5 and 5–20 dGH, with the best colors in softer water below neutral; Maidenhead Aquatics gives 72–79 °F and pH 6.0–8.0. Cherry-type shrimp tolerate 65–85 °F, pH 6.2–8.0 and GH 4–8 (The Shrimp Farm). By our comparison, about 75–78 °F, pH 6.5–7.2 and GH 5–8 suits both. Crystal and other Caridina want soft, acidic water but prefer it cooler (see crystal red shrimp care), so we would keep them in their own tank (our reading). See shrimp tank pH, GH and KH explained and shrimp tank temperature.

Tank size and setup

• Size: Seriously Fish suggests a base of about 24 × 15 in, about 18 US gallons, for a small group.
• Heavily planted: Seriously Fish says they look their best in a heavily planted tank and can look washed out in a sparse one. Maidenhead Aquatics adds hiding places, open swimming space, floating plants to soften the light, and a dark substrate or background. Thick moss gives shrimp cover (Aquarium Co-Op). See java moss for shrimp and best plants for shrimp tanks.
• Mature tank: shrimp need a cycled, stable tank. See how to cycle a shrimp tank.
• Shrimp-safe intake: a sponge filter or pre-filter keeps shrimplets out of the intake (our suggestion). See shrimp-safe filters.

Group size and behavior

Seriously Fish recommends at least 6, and preferably 10 or more, and calls the species peaceful and one of the best general community tetras. Maidenhead Aquatics also recommends groups of 6 or more. Females are slightly larger and heavier-bodied than males (Seriously Fish, Maidenhead Aquatics).

Other tankmates

Seriously Fish pairs them with livebearers, danios, rasboras, other tetras, Corydoras, small Loricariids, and most gouramis and dwarf cichlids, and warns they aren't safe with larger fish such as angelfish that may see them as food. Cichlids hunt shrimp (Aquarium Co-Op), so in a shrimp tank stick to small catfish and other peaceful small fish. See corydoras with shrimp, otocinclus with shrimp and lemon tetras with shrimp.

Feeding both

Seriously Fish says they are easy to feed and recommends small live and frozen foods such as bloodworm, Daphnia and brine shrimp alongside flakes and granules. Maidenhead Aquatics lists flake, micropellets and frozen foods such as mosquito larvae, brine shrimp and daphnia. Feed the tetras first at the surface, then drop sinking shrimp food into a planted corner (our suggestion). See best shrimp food.

How to add head-and-tail-light tetras to a shrimp tank

• Shrimp first. Practical Fishkeeping suggests letting the shrimp colony build up before adding fish; hiding places and well-fed fish reduce losses.
• Consider bigger shrimp. Neale Monks suggests larger shrimp such as Amanos when the fish are likely to eat babies. See Amano shrimp care.
• Acclimate slowly to your water. See how to drip acclimate.
• Watch shrimp numbers for the first few weeks, especially after molts.
• Quarantine the fish separately. Practical Fishkeeping says many fish medications are not safe for invertebrates. If fish get sick, ask a fish veterinarian or an experienced store about treatment that won't harm the shrimp. See how to quarantine and is copper toxic to shrimp.

Common mistakes

• Expecting a cherry colony to grow quickly next to a school of tetras.
• Buying three or four; Seriously Fish recommends at least 6 and preferably 10 or more.
• Keeping them in a bare, bright tank, where Seriously Fish says they look washed out.
• Adding angelfish or other larger fish that may eat the tetras, and certainly the shrimp.

Track it

Log temperature, pH, GH and TDS on the free Water Parameter Log printable so you can keep the tank in the range both species share.

Frequently asked questions

Will head-and-tail-light tetras eat cherry shrimp?

They will eat shrimplets. Full-grown cherry shrimp are usually too big for a 2-inch tetra in our reading, but small or freshly molted shrimp are at some risk. We rate them a moderate risk.

How big do head-and-tail-light tetras get?

About 1.8 inches (45 mm standard length) per Seriously Fish, or 2 inches (5 cm) per Maidenhead Aquatics.

What size tank do head-and-tail-light tetras need?

A base of about 24 by 15 inches, roughly 18 US gallons, for a small group (Seriously Fish).

How many head-and-tail-light tetras should I keep?

At least 6, and preferably 10 or more (Seriously Fish).

Is the beacon tetra the same fish?

Yes. Seriously Fish lists beacon tetra as another common name for the head-and-tail-light tetra.

Are head-and-tail-light tetras good for beginners?

Yes. Seriously Fish calls them hardy, inexpensive and one of the best choices for a newcomer, though no tetra is a good fit for a shrimp breeding tank.

Sources: Seriously Fish, Holopristis ocellifera (head-and-tail-light tetra) (formerly Hemigrammus ocellifer; Guyana, Suriname, French Guiana, Peru and Brazil; bred commercially in huge numbers; albino form; also called beacon tetra; hardy, inexpensive, good beginner fish; 45 mm SL; base 60 × 38 cm, about 18 US gal; best in heavily planted tanks, washed out in spartan ones; 24–28 °C, pH 5.5–7.5 preferably below neutral, 5–20 dGH; gold tail light at the caudal peduncle; easy to feed, small live and frozen foods with flakes and granules; peaceful, one of the best community tetras; tankmates; not safe with angelfish; group of at least 6, preferably 10 or more; females slightly larger and heavier); Maidenhead Aquatics (fishkeeper.co.uk), Head and tail light tetra (5 cm; 22–26 °C; pH 6–8, KH up to 18; groups of 6 or more; floating plants, hiding places and open swimming space; colors best on dark substrate or background; flake, micropellets and frozen foods; females fuller-bodied); Aquarium Co-Op, Cherry shrimp tank mates (avoid medium to large fish; cichlids hunt shrimp; dense foliage hides babies); Practical Fishkeeping, can I safely add some shrimp? (any active fish, even a small tetra, sees hatchling shrimp as food; larger shrimp such as Amanos as an alternative); Practical Fishkeeping, What can I keep with shrimp? (build the colony first; hiding places and well-fed fish reduce losses; many fish medications unsafe for invertebrates); The Shrimp Farm, Red rili shrimp tank set-up and care (cherry-type Neocaridina: 65–85 °F, pH 6.2–8.0, GH 4–8). The shared water zone, the moderate shrimp-risk rating and the stocking suggestions are our own.