Care guide

Red-eye tetras with shrimp

Research-based, not hands-on. We haven't run controlled trials ourselves. This guide compiles hobby references, manufacturer documentation and recurring owner reports (e.g. r/shrimptank, 2024–2026). Checked October 2026. How we research

The red-eye tetra is one of the hardiest and most widely sold tetras: a chunky, silvery fish with a red eye and a bold black band at the base of the tail (Practical Fishkeeping, Seriously Fish). It is Bario sanctaefilomenae, sold for decades as Moenkhausia sanctaefilomenae (Seriously Fish, Maidenhead Aquatics). Seriously Fish places it in Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina, mostly in clear rivers feeding the Pantanal, and Maidenhead Aquatics lists a wider range of river basins. All red-eyes in the trade are captive bred, which Seriously Fish says makes them unfussy about water and diet.

Quick version: A poor choice for a cherry shrimp colony. Red-eyes grow to about 2.8 in (70 mm standard length) (Seriously Fish) and 3 in (7.5 cm) overall (Practical Fishkeeping). Seriously Fish calls them somewhat boisterous and particularly active, with a reputation as fin nippers, and they eat almost anything. Our reading: shrimplets will be eaten and small or freshly molted adults are at risk, so we rate them a high risk. If you keep both, use a tank at least 36 in long, a group of 6 to 8 or more at about 72–78 °F, and lots of dense cover.

Red-eye tetra at a glance

Red-eye tetra (Bario sanctaefilomenae)
Adult size70 mm (2.8 in) standard length (Seriously Fish); 7 cm (Maidenhead Aquatics); up to 7.5 cm (3 in) (Practical Fishkeeping)
Temperature72–79 °F (22–26 °C) (Seriously Fish, Maidenhead Aquatics, Practical Fishkeeping)
pH6.0–8.0 (Seriously Fish, Maidenhead Aquatics); 6.0–7.5 (Practical Fishkeeping)
Hardness3–20 dGH (Seriously Fish); KH 5–20 (Maidenhead Aquatics); soft to moderately hard (Practical Fishkeeping)
TankBase of at least 36 × 15 in (90 × 38 cm), about 27 US gallons (Seriously Fish); 36 × 12 in minimum footprint (Practical Fishkeeping)
GroupAt least 6 to 8 (Seriously Fish); 6 or more (Maidenhead Aquatics)
DietAccepts nearly anything, including small live and frozen foods and some vegetable matter (Seriously Fish)
TemperamentActive, somewhat boisterous upper-water shoaler; can intimidate sedate fish (Seriously Fish, Maidenhead Aquatics)

Will red-eye tetras eat shrimp?

Red-eyes spend most of their time in the upper water (Maidenhead Aquatics), which helps a little, but they are fast and eager at feeding time. Keep a cherry colony in its own tank and treat any shrimp in a red-eye tank as a bonus. For gentler choices, compare ember tetras with shrimp, diamond tetras with shrimp and black neon tetras with shrimp, or see the full cherry shrimp tank mates list.

Matching the water

Seriously Fish says red-eyes are unfussy and do well anywhere from pH 6.0 to 8.0, within 72–79 °F and 3–20 dGH; Maidenhead Aquatics says they acclimatize to a wide range. Cherry-type shrimp tolerate 65–85 °F, pH 6.2–8.0 and GH 4–8 (The Shrimp Farm). By our comparison, about 72–78 °F, pH 6.5–7.5 and GH 4–8 suits both. Caridina such as crystal reds want soft, acidic, cooler water (see crystal red shrimp care), and with this much risk we wouldn't pair them (our reading). See shrimp tank pH, GH and KH explained and shrimp water parameters.

Tank size and setup

Group size and behavior

Seriously Fish says a shoal of at least 6 to 8 usually keeps fin-nipping within the group, and that red-eyes are skittish in small numbers. Maidenhead Aquatics recommends 6 or more and says they gain confidence in larger groups and don't split into small territories the way many tetras do. Females are larger and rounder (Maidenhead Aquatics, Seriously Fish).

Other tankmates

Seriously Fish suggests similarly sized tetras, rainbowfish, larger rasboras, barbs and most danionins, plus Corydoras, small Loricariids and botiine loaches, and warns that sedate fish such as gouramis and dwarf cichlids can be intimidated. Practical Fishkeeping says they suit most communities as long as tankmates are neither fragile nor big enough to eat them. Loaches and cichlids are shrimp hunters (Aquarium Co-Op), so if shrimp share the tank, stick to peaceful catfish. See corydoras with shrimp, bristlenose plecos with shrimp and serpae tetras with shrimp.

Feeding both

Seriously Fish says red-eyes accept just about anything and recommends small live and frozen foods such as bloodworm, Daphnia and brine shrimp, with some vegetable matter such as algae-based flake. Maidenhead Aquatics lists flake, green flake, micropellets and frozen foods. Feed the tetras first at the surface, then drop sinking shrimp food into dense cover (our suggestion). See best shrimp food.

How to add red-eye tetras to a shrimp tank

Common mistakes

Track it

Log temperature, pH, GH and TDS on the free Water Parameter Log printable so you can keep the tank in the range both species share.

Frequently asked questions

Will red-eye tetras eat cherry shrimp?

They will eat shrimplets, and in our reading small or freshly molted adults are at risk too. Red-eyes grow to about 3 inches and are boisterous feeders. We rate them a high risk.

How big do red-eye tetras get?

About 2.8 inches (70 mm standard length) per Seriously Fish, and up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) per Practical Fishkeeping.

What size tank do red-eye tetras need?

A base of at least 36 by 15 inches, about 27 US gallons (Seriously Fish); Practical Fishkeeping gives a 36 by 12 inch minimum footprint.

How many red-eye tetras should I keep?

At least 6 to 8 (Seriously Fish). Smaller groups are skittish and more likely to nip fins.

Are red-eye tetras aggressive?

Not aggressive, but somewhat boisterous. Seriously Fish says they can intimidate sedate fish such as gouramis and dwarf cichlids.

Are red-eye tetras good for beginners?

Yes, for a community of active fish. Seriously Fish and Practical Fishkeeping call them hardy and a good beginner choice, but not for a shrimp breeding tank.

Sources: Seriously Fish, Bario sanctaefilomenae (red-eye tetra) (formerly Moenkhausia sanctaefilomenae; Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina, clear rivers feeding the Pantanal; all trade fish captive bred, unfussy; 70 mm SL; base 90 × 38 cm, about 27 US gal for a particularly active species; dislikes bright, sparse tanks; 22–26 °C, pH 6.0–8.0, 3–20 dGH; accepts almost anything, small live and frozen foods plus vegetable matter; somewhat boisterous, can intimidate anabantoids and dwarf cichlids; tankmates; fin-nipper reputation, shoal of at least 6–8; skittish in small numbers; females rounder); Maidenhead Aquatics (fishkeeper.co.uk), Red-eyed tetra (7 cm; 22–26 °C; pH 6.0–8.0, KH 5–20; acclimatizes widely; hardy upper-water shoaler, groups of 6 or more; plants, bogwood and floating plants; confident in large groups, no small territories; flake, green flake, micropellets, frozen and live foods; wider list of river basins; females larger and rounder); Practical Fishkeeping, Silver belles for your aquarium (up to 7.5 cm/3 in; Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina; 90 × 30 cm minimum footprint; pH 6 to 7.5, soft to moderately hard; 22–26 °C; good for beginners; tankmates should be neither fragile nor large enough to eat them); Practical Fishkeeping, Community tetras: alternatives to butter (red eyes, mirror-like scales, black tail spot; fast, sometimes boisterous); Aquarium Co-Op, Cherry shrimp tank mates (avoid medium to large fish; cichlids and loaches hunt shrimp; dense foliage hides babies); Practical Fishkeeping, can I safely add some shrimp? (any active fish, even a small tetra, sees hatchling shrimp as food; larger shrimp such as Amanos as an alternative); Practical Fishkeeping, What can I keep with shrimp? (larger tetras and barbs likely to eat shrimp in the author's view; build the colony first; hiding places and well-fed fish reduce losses; many fish medications unsafe for invertebrates); The Shrimp Farm, Red rili shrimp tank set-up and care (cherry-type Neocaridina: 65–85 °F, pH 6.2–8.0, GH 4–8). The shared water zone, the high shrimp-risk rating and the stocking suggestions are our own.