Red-eye tetras with shrimp
The red-eye tetra is one of the hardiest and most widely sold tetras: a chunky, silvery fish with a red eye and a bold black band at the base of the tail (Practical Fishkeeping, Seriously Fish). It is Bario sanctaefilomenae, sold for decades as Moenkhausia sanctaefilomenae (Seriously Fish, Maidenhead Aquatics). Seriously Fish places it in Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina, mostly in clear rivers feeding the Pantanal, and Maidenhead Aquatics lists a wider range of river basins. All red-eyes in the trade are captive bred, which Seriously Fish says makes them unfussy about water and diet.
Red-eye tetra at a glance
| Red-eye tetra (Bario sanctaefilomenae) | |
|---|---|
| Adult size | 70 mm (2.8 in) standard length (Seriously Fish); 7 cm (Maidenhead Aquatics); up to 7.5 cm (3 in) (Practical Fishkeeping) |
| Temperature | 72–79 °F (22–26 °C) (Seriously Fish, Maidenhead Aquatics, Practical Fishkeeping) |
| pH | 6.0–8.0 (Seriously Fish, Maidenhead Aquatics); 6.0–7.5 (Practical Fishkeeping) |
| Hardness | 3–20 dGH (Seriously Fish); KH 5–20 (Maidenhead Aquatics); soft to moderately hard (Practical Fishkeeping) |
| Tank | Base of at least 36 × 15 in (90 × 38 cm), about 27 US gallons (Seriously Fish); 36 × 12 in minimum footprint (Practical Fishkeeping) |
| Group | At least 6 to 8 (Seriously Fish); 6 or more (Maidenhead Aquatics) |
| Diet | Accepts nearly anything, including small live and frozen foods and some vegetable matter (Seriously Fish) |
| Temperament | Active, somewhat boisterous upper-water shoaler; can intimidate sedate fish (Seriously Fish, Maidenhead Aquatics) |
Will red-eye tetras eat shrimp?
- Adult shrimp: at risk. None of our sources tested red-eyes with shrimp, but Aquarium Co-Op says to avoid medium to large fish with cherry shrimp, and Practical Fishkeeping's Nathan Hill personally counts the larger tetras among fish that will eventually eat shrimp. In our reading a 3-inch, boisterous fish can take a small male or a freshly molted cherry.
- Shrimplets: expect them to be eaten. Neale Monks at Practical Fishkeeping says pretty much any active fish, even one as small as a tetra, views hatchling shrimp as food.
- Eggs and berried females: eggs are safe while carried under the tail, but a stressed female may drop them (our reading).
Red-eyes spend most of their time in the upper water (Maidenhead Aquatics), which helps a little, but they are fast and eager at feeding time. Keep a cherry colony in its own tank and treat any shrimp in a red-eye tank as a bonus. For gentler choices, compare ember tetras with shrimp, diamond tetras with shrimp and black neon tetras with shrimp, or see the full cherry shrimp tank mates list.
Matching the water
Seriously Fish says red-eyes are unfussy and do well anywhere from pH 6.0 to 8.0, within 72–79 °F and 3–20 dGH; Maidenhead Aquatics says they acclimatize to a wide range. Cherry-type shrimp tolerate 65–85 °F, pH 6.2–8.0 and GH 4–8 (The Shrimp Farm). By our comparison, about 72–78 °F, pH 6.5–7.5 and GH 4–8 suits both. Caridina such as crystal reds want soft, acidic, cooler water (see crystal red shrimp care), and with this much risk we wouldn't pair them (our reading). See shrimp tank pH, GH and KH explained and shrimp water parameters.
Tank size and setup
- Size: Seriously Fish says this particularly active species deserves a base of at least 36 × 15 in, about 27 US gallons; Practical Fishkeeping gives a 36 × 12 in minimum footprint.
- Planted, not too bright: Seriously Fish says red-eyes dislike very bright or bare tanks and look excellent in a densely planted one; Maidenhead Aquatics suggests plants, bogwood and floating plants for cover. Thick moss gives shrimp somewhere to hide (Aquarium Co-Op). See java moss for shrimp and driftwood and botanicals for shrimp.
- Mature tank: shrimp need a cycled, stable tank. See how to cycle a shrimp tank.
- Shrimp-safe intake: cover the filter intake with a sponge so shrimplets aren't pulled in (our suggestion). See shrimp-safe filters.
Group size and behavior
Seriously Fish says a shoal of at least 6 to 8 usually keeps fin-nipping within the group, and that red-eyes are skittish in small numbers. Maidenhead Aquatics recommends 6 or more and says they gain confidence in larger groups and don't split into small territories the way many tetras do. Females are larger and rounder (Maidenhead Aquatics, Seriously Fish).
Other tankmates
Seriously Fish suggests similarly sized tetras, rainbowfish, larger rasboras, barbs and most danionins, plus Corydoras, small Loricariids and botiine loaches, and warns that sedate fish such as gouramis and dwarf cichlids can be intimidated. Practical Fishkeeping says they suit most communities as long as tankmates are neither fragile nor big enough to eat them. Loaches and cichlids are shrimp hunters (Aquarium Co-Op), so if shrimp share the tank, stick to peaceful catfish. See corydoras with shrimp, bristlenose plecos with shrimp and serpae tetras with shrimp.
Feeding both
Seriously Fish says red-eyes accept just about anything and recommends small live and frozen foods such as bloodworm, Daphnia and brine shrimp, with some vegetable matter such as algae-based flake. Maidenhead Aquatics lists flake, green flake, micropellets and frozen foods. Feed the tetras first at the surface, then drop sinking shrimp food into dense cover (our suggestion). See best shrimp food.
How to add red-eye tetras to a shrimp tank
- Shrimp first. Practical Fishkeeping suggests letting the shrimp colony build up before adding fish; hiding places and well-fed fish reduce losses.
- Consider bigger shrimp. Neale Monks suggests larger shrimp such as Amanos when the fish are likely to eat babies. See Amano shrimp care.
- Acclimate slowly to your water. See how to drip acclimate.
- Watch shrimp numbers for the first few weeks, especially after molts.
- Quarantine the fish separately. Practical Fishkeeping says many fish medications are not safe for invertebrates. If fish get sick, ask a fish veterinarian or an experienced store about treatment that won't harm the shrimp. See how to quarantine and is copper toxic to shrimp.
Common mistakes
- Choosing red-eyes for a shrimp tank because they are hardy and cheap; hardiness doesn't make them shrimp-safe.
- Keeping two or three, which Seriously Fish says leaves them skittish and nippy.
- Mixing them with slow, sedate fish that they can bully.
- Expecting a cherry colony to keep breeding next to a school of 3-inch fish.
Track it
Log temperature, pH, GH and TDS on the free Water Parameter Log printable so you can keep the tank in the range both species share.
Frequently asked questions
Will red-eye tetras eat cherry shrimp?
They will eat shrimplets, and in our reading small or freshly molted adults are at risk too. Red-eyes grow to about 3 inches and are boisterous feeders. We rate them a high risk.
How big do red-eye tetras get?
About 2.8 inches (70 mm standard length) per Seriously Fish, and up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) per Practical Fishkeeping.
What size tank do red-eye tetras need?
A base of at least 36 by 15 inches, about 27 US gallons (Seriously Fish); Practical Fishkeeping gives a 36 by 12 inch minimum footprint.
How many red-eye tetras should I keep?
At least 6 to 8 (Seriously Fish). Smaller groups are skittish and more likely to nip fins.
Are red-eye tetras aggressive?
Not aggressive, but somewhat boisterous. Seriously Fish says they can intimidate sedate fish such as gouramis and dwarf cichlids.
Are red-eye tetras good for beginners?
Yes, for a community of active fish. Seriously Fish and Practical Fishkeeping call them hardy and a good beginner choice, but not for a shrimp breeding tank.
Sources: Seriously Fish, Bario sanctaefilomenae (red-eye tetra) (formerly Moenkhausia sanctaefilomenae; Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina, clear rivers feeding the Pantanal; all trade fish captive bred, unfussy; 70 mm SL; base 90 × 38 cm, about 27 US gal for a particularly active species; dislikes bright, sparse tanks; 22–26 °C, pH 6.0–8.0, 3–20 dGH; accepts almost anything, small live and frozen foods plus vegetable matter; somewhat boisterous, can intimidate anabantoids and dwarf cichlids; tankmates; fin-nipper reputation, shoal of at least 6–8; skittish in small numbers; females rounder); Maidenhead Aquatics (fishkeeper.co.uk), Red-eyed tetra (7 cm; 22–26 °C; pH 6.0–8.0, KH 5–20; acclimatizes widely; hardy upper-water shoaler, groups of 6 or more; plants, bogwood and floating plants; confident in large groups, no small territories; flake, green flake, micropellets, frozen and live foods; wider list of river basins; females larger and rounder); Practical Fishkeeping, Silver belles for your aquarium (up to 7.5 cm/3 in; Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina; 90 × 30 cm minimum footprint; pH 6 to 7.5, soft to moderately hard; 22–26 °C; good for beginners; tankmates should be neither fragile nor large enough to eat them); Practical Fishkeeping, Community tetras: alternatives to butter (red eyes, mirror-like scales, black tail spot; fast, sometimes boisterous); Aquarium Co-Op, Cherry shrimp tank mates (avoid medium to large fish; cichlids and loaches hunt shrimp; dense foliage hides babies); Practical Fishkeeping, can I safely add some shrimp? (any active fish, even a small tetra, sees hatchling shrimp as food; larger shrimp such as Amanos as an alternative); Practical Fishkeeping, What can I keep with shrimp? (larger tetras and barbs likely to eat shrimp in the author's view; build the colony first; hiding places and well-fed fish reduce losses; many fish medications unsafe for invertebrates); The Shrimp Farm, Red rili shrimp tank set-up and care (cherry-type Neocaridina: 65–85 °F, pH 6.2–8.0, GH 4–8). The shared water zone, the high shrimp-risk rating and the stocking suggestions are our own.