Rummynose tetras with shrimp

By the Shrimp Tank Hub editorsUpdated Oct 26, 2026Research-based

The rummy-nose tetra is a 2-inch South American schooling fish with a red face and a black-and-white striped tail (Aquarium Co-Op). Three similar species are sold under the name: the true rummy-nose (Hemigrammus rhodostomus), the firehead or brilliant rummy-nose (H. bleheri), which Seriously Fish says is the one most often sold, and the false rummy-nose (Petitella georgiae). Seriously Fish notes that researchers proposed moving the two Hemigrammus species into Petitella in 2020. All three come from soft, acidic blackwater in the Amazon basin and need very similar care (Aquarium Co-Op).

Rummynose tetras at a glance

Will rummynose tetras eat shrimp?

• Adults: usually not. Aquarium Co-Op says rummy-nose tetras tend to leave adult dwarf shrimp and snails alone. Their mouths are small; Seriously Fish recommends small foods for that reason.
• Shrimplets: yes, when they find them. Aquarium Co-Op says that like most fish they will opportunistically snack on baby shrimp and fry. A big, active school covers a lot of the tank, so expect a cherry colony to grow more slowly.
• Which shrimp: a prolific Neocaridina such as cherry shrimp, which can absorb some losses, or larger Amano shrimp. Practical Fishkeeping's writer puts larger tetras among the fish that will eat shrimp sooner or later; at about 2 inches, rummies sit between the tiny tetras and those larger species, so treat them as a "maybe".

Our reading: rummy-noses are a reasonable display pairing with cherry shrimp in a large, densely planted tank, not a choice for a breeding colony or for prized Caridina. For smaller tetras that suit a nano tank better, compare ember tetras and neon tetras, and see the full list in cherry shrimp tank mates.

Matching the water

The shared zone is our comparison of the published ranges, not a tested target. Rummies like the warm end of the cherry shrimp range, and Seriously Fish says their color fades in alkaline water, so a tank with hard, high-pH tap water is a poor fit. Aquarium Co-Op says they adapt to a wide range in practice. If you keep a different shrimp, check its own range first; see shrimp tank temperature, shrimp tank pH and shrimp GH and KH explained.

The red nose as a warning light

Aquarium Co-Op calls rummy-noses the "canary in the coal mine" because their noses lose color when the fish are stressed, which can warn you about poor water quality, low temperature, disease or bullying. Seriously Fish also says they lose color in poor conditions and calls weekly partial water changes a must. In a shrimp tank that early warning helps both species: if the noses fade, test the water before the shrimp start dying. See shrimp tank water changes and why are my shrimp dying.

Tank size and setup

• Length matters: Seriously Fish says this active schooling fish needs a tank at least 36 inches (90 cm) long. Aquarium Co-Op says 20 gallons or more, ideally a longer tank they can swim back and forth in. A 3-foot tank is a sensible starting point for a school plus a shrimp colony. See how many shrimp per gallon.
• Planted or blackwater: both references describe a blackwater biotope of sand, driftwood and leaf litter, and both say a well-planted tank works too. Aquarium Co-Op says a darker background and substrate make the colors stand out. For the shrimp, dense plants and moss are the important part; see java moss, best plants for a shrimp tank and driftwood and botanicals.
• Heater: Aquarium Co-Op suggests a heater to hold the 74–84 °F they prefer; see shrimp tank heaters.
• Filter: guard the intake so shrimplets aren't pulled in; see shrimp-safe filters.

School size

Rummy-noses are one of the most tightly schooling small tetras, and Seriously Fish says they do poorly in small numbers: buy at least 10, preferably more. Aquarium Co-Op suggests at least 8 to 12 to see the schooling behavior. A big school is part of the appeal, but it also means more mouths hunting shrimplets, which is another reason to size the tank generously.

Feeding both

• Small foods for small mouths: Aquarium Co-Op uses baby brine shrimp, nano pellets and daphnia, and Seriously Fish recommends a mix of flakes, granules and small live and frozen foods for good color.
• Feed the shrimp separately: rummies are eager eaters that chase food all over the tank (Aquarium Co-Op), so drop sinking shrimp food into dense plants or a feeding dish after the fish have eaten. See best shrimp food and what do shrimp eat.
• Well-fed fish hunt less. Practical Fishkeeping lists keeping fish well fed, with plenty of plants and hiding places, as ways to reduce losses.

Buying healthy rummy-noses

Aquarium Co-Op says rummy-noses sometimes arrive at stores with ich or bacterial infections. Look for red noses, slightly rounded bellies, normal activity and no white spots; pale noses may just mean the fish arrived recently or were netted, so check again later. It also says new fish often "play dead" in the bag and right themselves once the bag is set down. To tell the species apart, Seriously Fish says only the firehead has red extending past the gill covers, and the false rummy-nose lacks the lower dark blotch at the base of the tail.

How to add rummynose tetras to a shrimp tank

• Shrimp first. Practical Fishkeeping suggests letting the colony build up before adding fish.
• Mature tank: fully cycled and stable; see how to cycle a shrimp tank.
• Quarantine the fish separately. Aquarium Co-Op quarantines new rummy-noses in a separate hospital tank and treats them there if needed. Practical Fishkeeping says many fish medications are not safe for invertebrates, so never medicate in the shrimp tank. If fish get sick, ask a fish veterinarian or an experienced store about treatment that won't harm the shrimp. See how to quarantine and is copper toxic to shrimp.

Eggs and fry in a shrimp tank

Rummy-noses scatter eggs and the adults eat them (Seriously Fish, Aquarium Co-Op). Both references describe breeding in a separate tank with very soft, acidic water, so fry are unlikely to appear in a typical cherry shrimp tank.

Common mistakes

• Putting a school in a short or nano tank.
• Buying only a handful of fish.
• Keeping them in hard, alkaline water where their color fades.
• Adding them to a prized crystal or bee shrimp tank.
• Skipping quarantine, or medicating in the shrimp tank.
• A sparse tank with no moss or cover for shrimplets.

Track it

Log temperature, pH, GH and TDS on the free Water Parameter Log printable so you can keep the tank in the range both species share.

Frequently asked questions

Do rummynose tetras eat shrimp?

They eat baby shrimp. Aquarium Co-Op says rummy-nose tetras opportunistically snack on baby shrimp and fry but tend to leave adult dwarf shrimp and snails alone.

Can rummynose tetras live with cherry shrimp?

Usually, in a large, densely planted tank. Expect some shrimplet losses and a slower-growing colony, and choose a prolific shrimp such as cherries.

How many rummynose tetras should I keep?

At least 10, preferably more, per Seriously Fish, or at least 8 to 12, per Aquarium Co-Op.

What size tank do rummynose tetras need?

Seriously Fish says a tank at least 36 inches (90 cm) long. Aquarium Co-Op says 20 gallons or more, ideally a longer tank.

Why is my rummynose tetra losing its red nose?

Aquarium Co-Op says the nose fades when the fish are stressed, for example by poor water quality, low temperature, disease or bullying. Test your water first.

What water do rummynose tetras and cherry shrimp share?

By our comparison of the published ranges, about 75 to 80 °F, pH 6.2 to 7.5 and GH 4 to 8.

Sources: Aquarium Co-Op, Care guide for rummy-nose tetras (2-inch South American characids; red-orange snout, striped tail; H. rhodostomus, H. bleheri, P. georgiae; tight schooling; 74–84 °F, low to mid 80s; noses lose color when stressed, "canary in the coal mine"; sometimes arrive with ich or bacterial infections, red noses and rounded bellies, pale noses after shipping or netting, play dead in the bag; quarantine in a separate hospital tank; blackwater Amazon basin, pH 5.5–7.5, soft to moderately hard GH; 20 gallons or bigger, longer tank; heater; planted tank, darker background and substrate; at least 8–12; peaceful community fish; opportunistically snack on baby shrimp and fry but tend to leave adult dwarf shrimp and snails alone; eager eaters; baby brine shrimp, nano pellets, daphnia; egg scatterers that eat their young; up to 5 years or more); Seriously Fish, Hemigrammus rhodostomus (rummy-nose tetra) (50 mm SL; blackwater rivers of the Orinoco and lower Amazon; most fish sold as rummy-nose are H. bleheri; Bittencourt et al. 2020 proposed moving it to Petitella; groups of 10 or preferably more, tank at least 36 in/90 cm long; biotope or well-planted tank; loses color in poor conditions, weekly partial water changes; 75–81 °F, pH 5.5–7.0, colors fade in alkaline water, 2–15 dGH; small mouth, flakes, granules and small live and frozen foods; very peaceful, doesn't compete well with boisterous or larger fish; adults eat eggs; only H. bleheri has red past the gill covers; Petitella lacks the lower caudal peduncle blotch); Seriously Fish, Hemigrammus bleheri (firehead tetra) (50 mm SL; 73–79 °F, pH 5.5–7.0, 2–15 dGH; groups of 10 or more); Seriously Fish, Petitella georgiae (false rummy-nose) (false rummy-nose); Practical Fishkeeping, What can I keep with shrimp? (larger tetras and barbs in the group that will eat shrimp sooner or later; plants, hiding places and well-fed fish reduce losses; let the colony build first; many fish medications unsafe for invertebrates); The Shrimp Farm, Red rili shrimp tank set-up and care (cherry-type Neocaridina: 65–85 °F, pH 6.2–8.0, GH 4–8). The shared water zone is our own comparison of these ranges.