Silvertip tetras with shrimp
The silvertip tetra is a small, coppery characin with white tips on its fins. It is Hasemania nana, from creeks and tributaries of the Rio São Francisco basin in Brazil, and Seriously Fish says it is one of the few characin genera without an adipose fin. All fish in the trade are captive bred, and it is sometimes sold as the copper tetra (Seriously Fish). Maidenhead Aquatics calls it very hardy and says males show rich copper color in the right conditions. For other hardy, active tetras, see bloodfin tetras and X-ray tetras.
Silvertip tetra at a glance
| Silvertip tetra (Hasemania nana) | |
|---|---|
| Adult size | 50 mm (2.0 in) standard length (Seriously Fish); 5 cm (2 in) (Maidenhead Aquatics) |
| Temperature | 73–82 °F (23–28 °C) (Seriously Fish); 72–82 °F (22–28 °C) (Maidenhead Aquatics) |
| pH | 6.0–8.0 (Seriously Fish, Maidenhead Aquatics) |
| Hardness | 5–20 dGH (Seriously Fish); up to 20 dH (Maidenhead Aquatics) |
| Tank | Base of at least 24 × 15 in (60 × 38 cm), about 18 US gallons, because it is active (Seriously Fish) |
| Group | No fewer than 6, preferably 10 or more (Seriously Fish); 6 or more (Maidenhead Aquatics) |
| Diet | Accepts just about anything; flakes, granules and small live or frozen foods (Seriously Fish) |
| Temperament | Lively and peaceful in a group; can be a little nippy kept alone (Seriously Fish); no long-finned tankmates (Maidenhead Aquatics) |
Will silvertip tetras eat shrimp?
- Adult shrimp: at some risk. Aquarium Co-Op says silver tips may not eat adult shrimp outright, but outcompete them for food and may stress them by chasing them relentlessly. In our reading, small males and freshly molted shrimp are the most exposed.
- Shrimplets: expect them to be eaten. Neale Monks at Practical Fishkeeping says pretty much any active fish, even one as small as a tetra, views hatchling shrimp as food, and Nathan Hill at Practical Fishkeeping says larger tetras will eventually eat shrimp.
- Eggs and berried females: eggs are safe while carried under the tail, but a chased female may drop them (our reading).
Dense moss and plants let some babies survive (Aquarium Co-Op), but a fast, hungry shoal will find most of them. If you want fish with a growing colony, compare ember tetras with shrimp and black phantom tetras with shrimp, or see the full cherry shrimp tank mates list.
Matching the water
Seriously Fish lists 73–82 °F, pH 6.0–8.0 and 5–20 dGH, and says captive-bred silvertips are unfussy about water chemistry. Maidenhead Aquatics gives 22–28 °C, pH 6.0–8.0 and up to 20 dH, and asks for clean, well-oxygenated water. Cherry-type shrimp tolerate 65–85 °F, pH 6.2–8.0 and GH 4–8 (The Shrimp Farm). By our comparison, about 73–78 °F, pH 6.5–7.5 and GH 5–8 suits both. This is not a fish for a crystal shrimp tank: crystals want cooler, softer water (see crystal red shrimp care). See shrimp tank pH, GH and KH explained and shrimp tank temperature.
Tank size and setup
- Size: Seriously Fish says this active species needs a tank of at least 24 × 15 × 12 in, about 18 US gallons, for a small shoal. Our reading: go longer if you add shrimp, so the shrimp have room to stay out of the way.
- Open water plus planted shade: Maidenhead Aquatics recommends open swimming areas with shady planted areas, and Seriously Fish says silvertips suit a heavily planted tank and color best under slightly dim light. Put the dense moss and plants where the shrimp live. See java moss for shrimp and best plants for shrimp tanks.
- Wood and leaves: Seriously Fish's biotope uses sand, driftwood, roots and dried oak or beech leaves. See driftwood and botanicals for shrimp.
- Mature tank: shrimp need a cycled, stable tank. See how to cycle a shrimp tank.
- Shrimp-safe intake: a sponge filter or pre-filter keeps shrimplets out of the intake (our suggestion). See shrimp-safe filters.
Group size and behavior
Seriously Fish says some silvertips can be a little nippy kept alone, but this drops dramatically in a group, so buy no fewer than 6 and preferably 10 or more. Maidenhead Aquatics recommends 6 or more and says not to keep them with long-finned species. Males tend to be slimmer and more intensely colored; females are fuller-bodied (Seriously Fish, Maidenhead Aquatics). Seriously Fish calls them lively, colorful and one of the best tetras for a general community.
Other tankmates
Seriously Fish suggests livebearers, danios, rasboras, other tetras, Corydoras and small Loricariids, and says to avoid larger fish such as angelfish that may eat them. Maidenhead Aquatics says they suit a robust community without long-finned fish. In a shrimp tank, stick to small bottom dwellers that don't compete hard for sinking food. See corydoras with shrimp and otocinclus with shrimp.
Feeding both
Seriously Fish says silvertips accept just about anything and do best with small live and frozen foods such as bloodworm, Daphnia and brine shrimp alongside flakes and granules. Maidenhead Aquatics says they eagerly take flake, micropellets and frozen foods. Because Aquarium Co-Op's concern is that they outcompete shrimp for food, feed the tetras at the surface first, then drop sinking shrimp food into a dense planted corner (our suggestion). See best shrimp food.
How to add silvertip tetras to a shrimp tank
- Shrimp first. Practical Fishkeeping suggests letting the shrimp colony build up before adding fish; hiding places and well-fed fish reduce losses.
- Consider bigger shrimp. Neale Monks suggests larger shrimp such as Amanos when the fish are likely to eat babies. See Amano shrimp care.
- Acclimate slowly to your water. See how to drip acclimate.
- Watch shrimp behavior for the first few weeks. Shrimp that hide all day or stop grazing in the open are being chased (our reading).
- Quarantine the fish separately. Practical Fishkeeping says many fish medications are not safe for invertebrates. If fish get sick, ask a fish veterinarian or an experienced store about treatment that won't harm the shrimp. See how to quarantine and is copper toxic to shrimp.
Common mistakes
- Buying a few; Seriously Fish says singles can be nippy and recommends 10 or more.
- Adding them to a tank with long-finned fish such as bettas (Maidenhead Aquatics).
- Feeding only at one spot, so the tetras eat the shrimp's share.
- Expecting a cherry colony to grow next to a fast, hungry shoal.
Track it
Log temperature, pH, GH and TDS on the free Water Parameter Log printable so you can keep the tank in the range both species share.
Frequently asked questions
Will silvertip tetras eat cherry shrimp?
They will eat shrimplets. Aquarium Co-Op says they may not eat adult shrimp outright but outcompete them for food and chase them, so we rate them a moderate to high risk.
How big do silvertip tetras get?
About 2 inches: 50 mm standard length per Seriously Fish, or 5 cm overall per Maidenhead Aquatics.
Are silvertip tetras fin nippers?
Seriously Fish says some can be a little nippy kept alone, much less so in a group of 6 to 10 or more. Maidenhead Aquatics says not to keep them with long-finned fish.
Is a silvertip tetra the same as a copper tetra?
Yes. Seriously Fish says Hasemania nana is sometimes sold as the copper tetra, and Maidenhead Aquatics says males turn rich copper in the right conditions.
How many silvertip tetras should I keep?
No fewer than 6, preferably 10 or more (Seriously Fish).
What size tank do silvertip tetras need?
A base of at least 24 by 15 inches, about 18 US gallons, because they are active (Seriously Fish).
Sources: Seriously Fish, Hasemania nana (silvertip tetra) (Hasemania nana; Rio São Francisco basin, Brazil, creeks and tributaries away from main channels, white and black water; no adipose fin; all captive bred, unfussy; sometimes sold as copper tetra; 50 mm SL; active, base 60 × 38 cm, about 18 US gal; 23–28 °C, pH 6.0–8.0, 5–20 dGH; heavily planted or sand, driftwood and leaves, slightly dim light; eats just about anything, bloodworm, Daphnia, brine shrimp, flakes and granules; lively, peaceful community tetra; livebearers, danios, rasboras, tetras, Corydoras, small Loricariids, most gouramis and dwarf cichlids; avoid angelfish; can be a little nippy alone, much less in a group, no fewer than 6, preferably 10+; males slimmer and more colorful); Maidenhead Aquatics (fishkeeper.co.uk), Silver tip tetra (São Francisco basin, Minas Gerais; mostly captive bred; 5 cm; 22–28 °C; pH 6.0–8.0, dH up to 20; very hardy; community with no long-finned fish; robust community; clean, well-oxygenated water; open swimming with shady planted areas; groups of 6 or more; eager feeder on flake, micropellets, mosquito larvae, brine shrimp, Daphnia; males copper, females fuller-bodied); Aquarium Co-Op, Cherry shrimp tank mates (steer clear of fast, hungry nano fish such as zebra danios and silver tip tetras, which may not eat adult shrimp outright but outcompete them for food and chase them; avoid medium to large fish; moss and plants for baby shrimp); Practical Fishkeeping, can I safely add some shrimp? (Neale Monks: almost any active fish, even a small tetra, eats hatchling shrimp; larger shrimp such as Amanos); Practical Fishkeeping, What can I keep with shrimp? (Nathan Hill personally lists larger tetras among fish that will eventually eat shrimp; let shrimp numbers build first; hiding places; well-fed fish; many medications unsafe for invertebrates); The Shrimp Farm, Red rili shrimp tank set-up and care (cherry-type range 65–85 °F, pH 6.2–8.0, GH 4–8). Risk rating, tank-length suggestion and the shared water range are our reading of these sources.